The Late Afternoon Edition

Dear Blogees,

I most sincerely apologize for the delay in posting today's blog. I thought that perhaps I would just pass, but as I have a perfect record, I figured that later was better than not at all. This morning is our anniversary, so we started off with a little Anniversary Breakfast at Daquerie Dick's (seems appropriate, no?!)

However, I won't continue with that story for the day is young and who knows what other adventures may ensue on one's 28th Anniversary. A toast to Helen Braden and family who helped us celebrate that day in Granthan, England more than a quarter of a century ago. Actually, Polley and I have been together for 35 years, but I will provide those sordid details on her birthday from Guadalajara.

Yesterday was a perfectly lovely day. Because there is a rumor of rain on Tuesday, we decided to do the beach a second day in a row. It was a bit cooler when I took my morning walk, wandering through the Mexican section of town and then down to this amazing baker to pick up another loaf of the only good bread in all of Puerto Vallarta. Back to the house and then off to the beach. Despite the day starting cool, the beach at noontime was punishing. We continually shifted our chairs beneath our umbrella to try and avoid the direct sun. Ah, the chores one must do to keep from becoming a lobster. We stayed until about 2 or so in the afternoon. Stopped for a brief beer and then headed back up the hill. We did pause as Polley noticed this wonderful bouquet of Bougainville against a bright, rich blue sky


Then on up the 82 steps to home and a little lunch. Both of us were deeply into books so we spent the remainder of the day napping and reading. I finished Richard Yates Revolutionary Road, recently made into a movie, though the book was written in the 60s. Polley with a little light reading, The Summer of Naked Swim Parties by Jessica Anya Blau.

Around 7 p.m. we headed down to La Palapa. We thought a musician from Que Pasa played there on Sunday evenings. Fist we had an overpriced glass of wine at the River Cafe. This is a kind of swanky place that sits on the island in the middle of the Rio Cuale. Very nice atmosphere, but a host that except for his age, well could have been a German officer in WWII. One very cold fish! After that we strolled on down to La Palapa, but no sign of Bobby, the muscian. So we headed back, only to discover another member of that same band from Que Pasa, bass guitarist, Steve York who plays along with his wife, Lisa at an oceanside bar, Cuartes y Cuertes. So, we sat in and boy were we glad we did. After they did a set, a trio of young people from Mexico City did a set and they were amazing. Two guitars and vocalist. Reminded me a bit of a small Pink Martini. She was a great scat singer, could make amazing sounds with her throat and mouth (sort of South American influence) and the lead guitarist was equally astounding.


We stayed and slowly sipped on a Corona each (having already spent our allowance on the wine) and listened for another set or so. Love watching musicians who had barely met, let alone play together, jamming. They did a blues number (all 5 musicians) and then a standard from the 40s or 50s. Great fun. Evening continued lovely as we walked back home and had a late night snack before calling it another delightful day.

Ed and Polley

All Continues Pleasant

Faithful followers,

Happy January 4th, the end of the long holiday weekend. Hope your New Year is getting off to a good start. We have adapted to the time and the light and are arising a little earlier each morning. Yesterday some church bells, the requisite roosters and donkeys, etc. got us going about 7:45 am. I took off for an extended walk, up through the Mexican neighborhood to check on the situation with our favorite bar, Que Pasa. It has been closed due to some long-time dispute over the building. It is a great shame as this was our regular Thursday haunt. Great food and terrific music. A real loss!

Back home for the blog ritual and then we decided to head back to Ritmos Beach. The difference in the amount of people in just two days was incredible. New Year's day had been packed. Yesterday, we were about two rows in the from the water and it was very quiet. As I said, I imagine by the end of today the town will have really quieted down. We spent a very nice two hours in the sun, again getting a little water time and strolling the beach to enjoy the kids and families at play. I love the whole family thing that seems so much a part of this country, at the beach, at the store, at church, it is all about the whole family.

We strolled back toward the apartment. On the Malécon you cross over a bridge where the Rio Cuale flows into the sea. It is a favorite play and sun spot for Mexicans


They gather on both sides and just play in the stream, jump in the ocean, have a little lunch and usually fall asleep


I also managed to catch a couple of pictures of these birds (not the Pelicans) that seem to frequent the shoreline. They swim in the most amazing straight lines



Nature seems to be much more organized than we can manage!

We got home for a little lunch. Actually, our lunch had become a joke. We had a half of left over pizza in the fridge from our fist night here. We kept saying we would eat it, but had yet to make good on the promise. Out of necessity, we had to finally finish it off. Actually, and perhaps surprisingly, it tasted better than the night it was fresh.

Napped a bit, read and I watched the NFL Playoff Games, in Spanish. If you recall I saw the Superbowl that way as well last year.

Having had a somewhat substantial lunch (I think we finished off some guacamole as well), we decided to make it a light dinner. We drifted down to Época for a drink. Talked a little with the owner about the hugh new Condominium complex that had gone in next door. It was under construction last year, but is now totally complete, although only about half full


We just sat for an hour or so and watched the crowds stroll by. Caught a glimpse of the Pirate Dinner Ship in the harbor


We then strolled up to Cafe Candela. This was the Mexican place that we discovered the dip with the Greek yogurt, onions, capers and oil-cured black olives that we have served to many of you. We wanted to see if our concoction was close to theirs. It is actually called Jocoque Candela. Jocoque is a sharp, thick sour cream that is the basis for the dish. It is very sharp and adds a certain bitterness that ours does not have, due to the milder Greek Yogurt. Still very tasty. We had a couple of glasses of wine and finished off the dip before heading up the hill. Unfortunately, the camera was not working and I have no current pictures of Candela, but they will follow. With Que Pasa closed, Candela may become a local hangout. Lovely setting, very nice people although there is NO English spoken and no English menu. Still a very affordable place and very close to home.

More to come

Ed and Polley

Friends and all,

Another day in Paradise! It was truly ideal again. We have been trying alternate days at the beach with days of just strolling as we have not quite acquired an adequate tan yet that would allow us to go out on a daily basis. Also, we still keep thinking of a few more things we need. Se today, after my morning constitutional up and down the Malécon, we leisurely dressed and headed down to the central part of town and on to the grocery store. We stopped again at the Cuban bar and had one of their 2 x 1 specials. This time we were wise enough to order just one for 2 and for about 3.50 we had a couple of very cold brews. Also, this place had a lovely view of the scenery

If you look to the right of the photo, you can see a local enjoying it as well.

After a little refreshment, we headed off to Ley's grocery. I am not sure I ever enter as deeply into Mexican culture as when we shop there. It's not that there are no gringos there, but there are very few. A man sits cleaning fresh cactus in the produce section and the delicatessen has dozens of dishes that we hardly recognize. We did pick up some more shrimp ceviche and also tried their guacamole (which turned out to be very good). A few more items and we strolled back, stopping at Las Palomas for another beer and just to sit and let the world go by.

Back to our place for lunch, some extended reading time -- Polley is reading The Shack, which I had finished - a popular, but engaging story of a man who visits with God in a shack. I am working through Revolutionary Road, a '60s novel that has recently been made into a film. Such joy to just sit and read things that have been recommended or that sound interesting -- no assigned reading.

Tonight was one of the weekly "Art Walks." If you read the blog last year, you might remember that Puerto Vallarta has about 15 galleries that stay open late one night a week. Because it is weekly, we did about 3 galleries last night and will pick up a few next week. Unfortunately, the galleries don't seem to change much, so much of what we saw last year, we remembered from the year before. But it is a pleasant evening to stroll, sip a bit of wine or tequila and look at art and at people. Did stroll past the Cathedral which was all lit up for the holidays

We then continued down the Malécon for a ways, coming across a hord of Mexican families out enjoying a Friday night. I got a photo of these very cute girls playing about the statue of the dancing couple.

After a lovely walk into Zona Romantica, we turned off the beach and further up before into Old Town for dinner at the real Fajita Republic. The night before had been crazy with tourists, tonight, despite it being a Friday, was more humane. Got a wonderful table and had a delicious dinner. Polley had the excellent "Crunchy Salad" and I had the Vegetarian Fajita. A great dinner for about $25. With the stronger dollar and the fact that prices haven't really changed very much, Mexico seems even more affordable than before. At the restaurant, of course Polley found another cat to befriend.


A walk directly back home for a little late night reading and then it was lights out on day 4.

Ed and Polley

Routine Established

Friends and family,

Today, after spending yesterday "settling in" - that's what people constantly ask you, "Are you settled in yet?" I am not sure exactly what that means, but we did manage to turn our attention from certain household necessities to the beach. However, we did have to stop at the Farmacia Guadalajara to get a few things - forgot our suntan lotion and, of course, how could we leave home without the Metamucil! Anway, got to the beach about 11:30 and ordered our first Margarita. Ritmos Beach has the best in town so we purposely waited until we got there for "that savory concoction that helps you hang on" -- Jimmy Buffett. Anyway, has it was still the holiday, the beach was crowded. Actually the whole town is packed right now. People continued to steam in right up until we left, about 2:45 pm, wanting to limit our sun time on the first day. As you can see from these couple of phots, it was very full.

This second shot was taken as we discovered the bird perched very proudly on the umbrella

I do enjoy Sundays and holidays at the beach as so many Mexican families come down and you see parents playing the sand and water with their children. Very fun.

We wandered back home for a bit of lunch and then read and napped, running a little late, not really lying down until nearly 5 p.m. Back up about 6:30 to read and check internet, etc. Finally wandered out for dinner about 8 p.m. We had decided on a place called Fajita Republic. We had thoroughly enjoyed it 2 or 3 times last year. Had a twenty minute wait (I told you, the town is packed). Finally got our table only to discover that this restaurant that looked exactly the same as last year, was no longer Fajita Republic (which had moved down the street), but was, in fact, Margaritagrill (Clever, NO!) Since were there, we thought let's try it. We got a beer, but it took 30 minutes for them to take our order, another 25 minutes to bring the food (they never did deliver chips and salsa as promised) and 20 more minutes to get the bill. I think it only took us 20 minutes to actually eat the undistinguished and easily forgettable food. There were some cute kittens begging for food from time to time, so that help fills the long periods of waiting. Believe me, this will be the last you will hear about Margaritagrill!

Another lovely evening, perhaps a little cooler, but nice. It was nearly 10:30 by the time we got back to the apartment. Read for another hour or so. Ironically, we stayed up to nearly midnight on the day AFTER New Years, but couldn't make it on the appointed date for celebration.

Anyway, except for the bad meal, it was a very nice day and very typical of our time to come in Vallarta. More to come.

Ed and Polley

Setting Up Our Temporary Home

To the casually intrigued,

Our first full day in PV was primarily devoted to the practicalities of getting our house in order, so to speak. Not arising until well after 8, I took a 45 minute walk along the Malécon, that mile long stretch of walkway that runs along the ocean and is the primary gathering spot for people at night. As I made my way, I saw that they were setting up for the fireworks display (or a mortar assault on a neighboring state). It was huge, with giant mortar-like shells being prepared. Returned somewhat winded and a little warm, as it has already become quite hot by 10 am. Polley and I did a few household chores (she, of course, was still unpacking). We headed out about 11 to go to the very Mexican grocery store, me with disconnected strands of Spanish running in my head, preparing to confront bag boys and checkers.

As it was already a bit warm, we decided that the best way to begin a shopping tour was with a BEER! We stopped into this little Cuban restaurant and ordered 2 beers. Little did we know that by 11:30 am you are into Happy Hour and two for one beers. I caught Polley about halfway through the first one


We thought there was no way we would finish 4 beers, but it was such a delightful table, right in the window of the place, that we just sat there for nearly an hour and watched the other tourists wander by us. They had a little live music, with a Cuban man and woman as guitar and vocals. She had a very expressive sound.


We also had a wonderful view of the wild life along the beach. Here, if you look carefully, you can see three very proud pelicans perched on a wall near the Malécon


I realize now that I should have taken a photo or two in the grocery store. It was a madhouse! It was New Year's Eve day and people were stocking up. We, of course, not being very familiar with the "organization" of the store, ran from one end to the other finding the things on our list. Like much of Europe, the product divisions are carefully defined by each type of store. Who would guess that a place that carried Kleenex brand paper towels would not carry Kleenex! The store had shampoo, but no toothpaste (the airport having confiscated our for reasons of national security, if you recall). So finally, we got in line and paid for our purchases, remembering to tip the person who bags your groceries. Which is better in France, where no one bags the groceries; you are on your own.

We made the quite substantial trek home with 4 or 5 bags of groceries in hand. it was very warm and we were pretty done in, being out of shape for our serious assault on the hill where lies our home. We had a little delicious bread for lunch. Earlier onmy walk, I had found the bread baker that we discovered late in our stay last year. I took home a wonderful loaf of Jalapeño and Cheese bread. Just that and a little butter was lunch.

The rest of the afternoon was spent reading and napping. About 7 p.m. we decided to venture out and see how things were gearing up for the New Year. Many Mexicans it appeared had the day off as we saw many shopping when we had been out earlier. The evening was getting quite active. People were selling long sparklers (about 3 feet long) and here and there a firecracker would go off. We wandered south on the Malécon and stopped into a place we had frequented last year called Época (means "season"). It is actually owned by a former Portland school teacher. One of our favorite bartenders from last year was there, so I got a picture of Hannah and Polley.


It was an absolutely perfect evening. It was warm and there was not a breath of wind. We just sat and watched people and delighted in the fact that just 48 hours before we had been in the cold and damp of Portland. 4 hours by plane and we were in Paradise.

Originally we had the best of intentions to see the New Year in, but as we sat and sipped our wine, it became less and less important. We strolled along the Malécon, catching some of the blurred action of the evening as we went. Mostly kids with sparklers, bur also food stand after food stand along the way



As we turned away from the madness of the Malécon as it prepared for a simulation of World War III, we came across a stray kitten and, of course, Polley tried to cox it to her so we might have a roommate for the rest of our stay. If you look carefully, you can see the little critter near the curb and the car


Alas, after several valiant attempts, we were not able to grab the little fellow. She was intrigued, but there were so many sounds and people passing by, that it was just not meant to be. Too bad for the kitten, as you know we would have spoiled the hell out of her or him!

We got home about 10 p.m. Ate too much of a shrimp ceviche that we had bought earlier in the day (and way too many corn chips). Downed a little wine and said good night to 2008. In the middle of the night (actually 12 am, the world literally exploded in a barrage that went on for more than half an hour. Just when you thought it would quiet down, another assault would begin. Like last year, we heard people partying and singing until about 5:30 am, when things quieted down, so that the focus could be on the roosters and donkeys and their greetings to the New Year. Happy New to all!

Ed and Polley

Arrived!

Dear faithful readers (and to those of you unfaithful as well),

We are in the warmth of Puerto Vallarta and it is pure bliss! All went smoothly on the flight, after security confiscated my large tube of Crest Toothpaste! My own fault as I thoughtlessly decided on the large economy size! However, after that confrontation (actually you could tell by the TSA guy's expression that he thought it was dumb as well. Anyway, non-stop to PV, arrived 15 minutes early. We plodded through passport control and then were whisked by a Mexican Skycap (Sky Sombrero?) to a taxi and were on our way to the apartment by 5:05 p.m. Unfortunately our landlords had decided to meet us (they sent an e-mail to confirm after we left Portland). So they made an unnecessary trip, we spent 30 dollars and then sat waiting for their return. All was forgiven, but I do feel we owe them a dinner at some point.

We lugged the bags up the hill and then up the long flight of steps. It was then that we were reminded that we were a year older than when we did this last time. We may have to rent a burro if we return next year. Anyway, we also realized we had not eaten all day, so we passed on the immediate unpacking (which will give you a sense of how hungry Polley was. She always unpacks first!

We went out a got a few necessaries for morning, coffee and sugar, and a little wine for whenever and then started to hunt for a place to eat. It was then we realized how tired we were and we headed for an Italian place we had been to a couple of times last year. Had half of the pizza, a couple of Coronas and head back up the hill. It was THEN we seemed revitalized and the unpacking commenced. Finally gave up about 10 p.m., about 19 hours after rising. Awoke to a beautiful, warm monring. We heard the comforting sounds of PV, the roosters, the donkies and the church bells. Slept until 8:20, which for those of you who know us, is unheard of. But, all the cares, concerns, contentions and confrontations were apparently abandoned as we touched down in Mexico. We will try to keep you updated and we will attempt to be fascinating, at least part of the time.

Sort of missing those we love,

Ed and Polley

The Adventure Continues!

One and all,

It is about 5 a.m on Tuesday, December 30th and we are just 3 hours from leaving for Mexico. Thank God! December was a very long month. We are ready, as I am sure you all are, for a change. While I hate to gloat (Well, I am not sure I hate it, but really do try to resist it), we are making the change. We catch a non-stop flight at 10:20 this morning (of course, we've been up since 3 a.m -- and this is with being pretty well organized) for Puerto Vallarta and will be back at our old haunt, looking forward to doing the dishes in the shower. We will be there all the month of January and then move over to Guadalajara on February 1st. Home on March 1st.

We do have a Skype number again, however, it is not the same one we had last year. You can reach us with just a local call to (503) 928-7476. There is voice mail so if we are at the beach, we promise to get back to you.

It has been interesting in our anticipating the trip. Last year I couldn't understand people wanting to return to the same place again and again. However, I must confess a certain excitement in going back and seeing friends and locals that we met last year. People come and go so much in PV, that I am certain some people will not realize that a year has gone by and just greet us as though we'd been gone a week or two.

I am going to try to treat the blog a bit differently this go-around. I am going to treat it more like a daily diary. Perhaps not as many photos and short entries, but I will try to be more regular (and at my age that becomes increasingly more difficult). As with any traveling, we look forward to the people, but the hard part is that in traveling, it is also the people we miss. We will think of you all and wish you the best for the New Year. I will work to keep in touch through this blog and I hope you will make contact from time-to-time as well.

Love,

Ed and Polley