Polley Update

Dear Friends and Family,

Again, thanks to all that have expressed good wishes to Polley on her recovery. I am sorry to take a while to give the latest information, but we went through a series of tests and I also was waiting for a response from our doctor at Kaiser. Polley had two MRIs last Monday and Tuesday. Each took more than an hour and then, not included in the bill of more than $500, was delivery. It was me on a city bus for 30 minutes each way to get the results, which, of course, meant nothing to me as they were all in Spanish! So, it was back to our local doctor whom I was told could see me right away. 65 minutes later, I was ushered into her office. The results of the first were pretty much what one could expect from a nearly 79 year old. The second one, however, revealed a pinched nerve. This would explain the frequent sharp, stabbing pains that she is dealing with. So, we are trying anti-inflammatories and muscle relaxants. At times, it seems better, at others, it does not. I think that ancient healer, time, will be answer. In the meantime, we shall muddle (shuffle) along. At least, it is warm which puts it one up on Oregon at the moment.

Other than the medical update, there is little to report. We have tried to make it down to the Malécon each evening for sunset.

Some, as you can see, have been quite dramatic. Clouds have moved in the last couple of nights and, in fact, last night there was nothing visible at all

I did have a fun moment on my walk the other morning, as I came across a group of people, pardon the expression, "getting their rocks off" . . THE BEACH!

We have had particularly high tides the last few days and it is amazing how many rocks the beach can throw up over night. This was the beach in front of a nice restaurant, Daqueri Dicks, where they normally set out tables and chairs on the beach. It was not happening on this day, unless some people got out and moved the rocks. They were all doing their best.

The amazing thing is, that the sea can come up and take them all away as quickly as they were deposited. Don't mess with Mother Nature.

So, that is it for now. No dramatic developments, but, at this point, we are just hoping for a "blessed miracle." In that even, you will be the first to know. Thanks, again, for caring.

 

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Struggles Abroad

Dear Friends and Family,

It has been more days that I'd like to admit since last I wrote. They have been a bit difficult. Both Polley and I have been ill. Mine, I think, is just a cold, but Polley has really been struggling. A week ago today she was suffering from a terrible pain in her back. I got an appointment and we got to the doctor. She is a terrific internist and cardiologist, Dr. Lewgot. She quickly determined that Polley had "Walking Pneumonia"! Polley has had this terrible hacking cough for two or three months and we kept telling our Kaiser doctors about it. She had a swallow test and worked with a speech pathologist on controlling the cough. Now it is likely that it was a low grade pneumonia the whole time. Polley had a chest x-ray and the infection was confirmed. So with some meds, we glided home, happy that we now had a diagnosis. After months, we had met the enemy.

The following Monday, we returned to the doctor for a second round of shots and some more meds. Unfortunately, two days later, last Thursday, we were back with Lewgot, as Polley was suffering again from this back pain, seemingly located in her lungs. Lewgot put her on a respirator/humidifier for half an hour and we were to come back on Friday. We did that yesterday and there seemed to be some improvement. However, by last night, the pain had returned and by 2 am this morning she was in agony. I have an e-mail into the doctor and we will see what additional steps will be taken. It is difficult when you are so far from home. Mexican doctors have been great, and Dr. Lewgot comes highly recommended, but I do fear that we may be in for the long haul with this. More later, as we make progress.

On a brighter note, we did have a night out, in between bouts of illness. We went to Barcelona, a tapas restaurant that we enjoyed about 6 or 7 years ago. It is located at the north end of El Centro and had just fallen off our radar. After making our way up endless flights of stairs, we did find ourselves with a lovely table for two with a breathtaking view of the bay below.

As you can see, it was a beautiful evening. The restaurant comes around and takes the photos and then prints them and sends them by e-mail as well. Makes for a very special mimento. Food it also very good. Not just another pretty view!

We also managed a night or two of trips down to Roberto's for sunset. As with most nights, very impressive.

It has been fun to watch the sun come around to the north over the last month. It now sets off the point and we see it disappear into the ocean horizon. Last night was, in fact, one of the first nights that it set off land. Termperatures are also heating up, although the Mexicans are still complaining about the coolness of the mornings. You see them everywhere in their hoodies and jackets while us Gringos are walking the Malécon in tank-tops and sandals.

So, not a lot of action. Mostly trying to low low and heal. More on that soon. For now, I sit ast 6 am feeling a bit useless and hope the doctor will call. Best to all for now.

 

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Alive in Paradise

Dear Friends and Family,

Nothing really staggering to report, but we are alive and enjoying ourselves in the sunshine. Actually, when discussing the weather, it has been a bit cool in the mornings especially. We have had lows in the upper 50s. I don't expect much sympathy from those of you upo north, as I realized the other morning that our low was still about 15 degrees warmer that you high was going to be for the day. I will, however, confess to needing long-sleeve shirts in the morning and for the last two night have worn long pants down to the Malécon for the sunset, some of which have been spectacular.

Last night, as you can see, we had one of what I call a "Ben Hur" sky, light of God and all that.

We have gotten to know two Canadian couples and have enjoyed their company as they come down to the Malécon most evenings for some refreshment and conversation. Ray and Yvonne are from Vancouver, B.C. And Wally and Pat are from a very small place about 4 hours further east our of Vancouver. Very nice people who enjoy just sitting and talking, somewhat of a lost art I am finding,

Tuesday, after the sun went down (we like to make sure that even occurs each evening), we wandered over to a place on the Rio Cuale, called The River Cafe to see, for the first time this winter, our Scots friend, Bobby Tansen, the hippie flute player.

Bobby plays all over town, but on Tuesdays is paired with Gilberto, a great guitar player, for several sets of the hits of our generation. It is basically the same show they do up river on Friday afternoons. We sat and had glassed of wine and had a chance to talk with both Bobby and Gilberto for a few minutes. You always have to plan to share Bobby with other groupies who seem to gather wherever he appears (of course, that is what groupies are supposed to do, right?). It was a nice evening and we enjoyed reconnecting with Bobby. We plan to catch him and his son who are playing at an Irish pub on Saturday.

I did have one light-hearted, "lost in translation" moment a couple of days ago. I wanted to get my beard trimmed. I like to go to this old Mexican barber. It is another opportunity to connect with the locals. He has no English, so it challenges me to use my Spanish. I ask him for trim, on the short side. In just moments, his clippers had removed one whole side of my beard completely! What could I do? The trim quickly became a complete shave and I was, shockingly, reintroduced to my face. After the shave, feeling somewhat honored by the fact that the old man (probably my age!) used the first razor blade he had ever owned, I returned home and with every fiber of my being, started on the new beard!

So, with that, I bid adieu. All is well, we lover our house, we cherise our daily routine and it is so nice to have time again the read. I particularly enjoyed two novels my Kate Atkinson, a re-reading of "Life After Life" and her companion piece to it, "A God in Ruins," both highly recommended! Until next time, we think of all of you often and hope all is well in the north.

 

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A Happy Ending

Dear Friends and Family,

When last I reported to you, Polley and I had just enjoyed a wonderful evening at Casa Kimberly, the former home of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, as we celebrated our 35th wedding anniversary. 12 hours later, the symbol of that commitment had vanished and there were moments of real devastation. Have your attention? I hope so.

The next day, with the sun shining and the brilliant blue sky bringing everything into sharp perspective, Polley and I headed for the beach. We settled in with a couple of cold Pacificos and I adjusted my chair to catch a few rays of the sun. It had been cloudy for several days, this was the first real opportunity to work on acquiring a little bit of color. As it got warmer, I decided to go into the ocean, something I almost never do, certainly not in any serious way. I was feeling a slight quiver of my inner teenage surfer. After a few minutes, I discovered that the was determined to reveal me as an aging 68-year old. So as I extracated myself from the sea, a good-sized wave tossed me about. I quickly righted myself and returned to the comfort and safety of my chair (and my beer!). Within a minute or two, I discovered that my wedding band had come off! As I was about 25 pounds heavier in 1981, the then tight fitting band had, over the years, fit rather loosely and I was constantly battling to keep it on. Last Wednesday, I lost the battle. I was devastated! We searched in searched, but to no avail. The tide was coming in, the surf was pounding and it was lost! After an hour or so, reluctantly, we headed home, stopping off for a bitter tasting margarita.

The next morning, ever the optomist, I was at the same beach as the sun came up. Of course, no luck! I trudged back home, determined to somewho replace the ring. At lunch, I mentioned the situation of our very good waiter/friend, José. Within minutes José had run across the street to the local mercado and soon returned with Pépe, a local jeweler. He looked at Polley's ring and said that he could make a copy. He would get a quote from the designer and we were to meet him at 5 pm. This was Thursday. At 5 we returned, Pépe had the quote. We agreed and he said that it would be ready Saturday. Saturday!? Only two days. Incredible!

Last night, at 5, we returned and the result was miraculous!

It was a perfect match

 

Tragedy averted and marriage saved! The other nice part, from a purely practical standpoint, it was all in pesos! With the American dollar so strong, it was not nearly as hard a hit to the pocketbook. However, regardless of cost, it was going to be replaced. So last night, we celebrated a bit, sitting out on the Malécon, watching the sky celebrated our good fortune.

More soon!

 

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A Night To Remember - 35 Years and Counting

Dear Friends and Family,

It was our anniversary last night and to celebrate, we had dinner at Casa Kimberly, the former home of Liz Taylor and Richard Burton.

For the last half dozen years or more, it has been undergoing restoration. At the end of 2015 it finally opened as a high-end hotel and restaurant. We had our first peek last night.

As some of you know, it is located just around the corner from us and so, at about 7:15, we hiked up the hill, pulled on sturdy piece of rope that rang a bell at the front gate and were quickly greated by the concierge and escorted to our table.

We sat in the open air, with a stunning view of the south hills of PV, just off a larger dining room where an excellent mariachi band was entertaining.

Not surprisingly, the service and the food were excellent as well. For an appetizer, we had a seafood ceviche with shrimp, octopus and squid. It was elaborately presented in a kind of cup created by very thinly sliced cucumber. For the main meal, Polley had an intriguing corn soup and I had chicken enchiladas in green and black bean sauce. Everything was wonderful. We passed up on dessert, however, the waiter informed us a little surprise.

It was a kind of cheesecake mound. Clearly it was delicious as it was gone before I could take a photo. Following dinner, we wandered about the place. There were Liz Taylor posters,

A large courtyard,

And when you crossed over the bridge, built to link Taylor's place with a second home, purchased by Burton who apparently loved to read and valued his time alone, you came to his home

Most of it was not available for viewing, but we were able to look down on the pool and deck that surrounds it.

All in all, it was a wonderful anniversary celebration and we have booked a reservation for Polley's birthday as well. Perhaps, at that time, we can explore some of the rooms, which we are told rent for as much as $800 a night. We will doubtless, just be having dinner.

More soon.

 

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A Slow Adjustment

Dear Friends and Family,

I have taken to trying to journal a bit at a time and them post it to you. This, of course, not mean it will be any more interesting than before, but it does help this aging mind keep track of the days' activities.

 

 

Sunday, 27 December

A very gray, very rainy day today. I headed off on my walk, partially in pursuit of a proper litter box. The one our old landlord, Alfred, had given us, along with Kira the cat, was a converted cardboard box. The cat was not pleased with the arrangement and demonstrated her displeasure by "pooping" in the corner of the living room. Point taken! Finding nary a litter box in PV, even at the vet (Most cats are outdoors, so it makes a kind of sense), I headed out to a larger store, Mega. Just as I reached Mega, about a mile and a half, the skies opened up and even after thoroughly searching for a litter box at Mega, it was still pouring. Since I was already a mile and a half north, I thought next stop: Walmart. I scrambled across the highway and was shortly onboard a city bus; the best 7 1/2 peso adventure ride in the area. I reached Walmart, pretty much drenched as it was a good run from the bus stop to the store. In fact, I had to run along the highway for a bit as there was not place to cross the swamps that had formed up against the curbs. Still no little box. However, in a brief moment of creative clarity (desperation?), I thought about just a standard tub in housewares. Voila! A new litter box. So, feeling somewhat triumphant, I caught a cab back home

Rain continued, so Polley and I stayed in the remainder of the morning, reading. About noon, we ventured down to La Fuente. The previous 4 days the place had been dead and we even feared that it was not going to survive. Sunday, it was packed and we had to retreat to a sidewalk table, as there were none available in the actual restaurant. It was clear that because it was not sunny and warm, but rather wet and rainy, tourists had strayed away from the beach and come further into town. The place was so busy, in fact, and the staff so minimal that I had to bus a couple of tables and seat a family and take their drink orders. Ah, the price for being a regular! We must have sat for nearly an hour, satisfactorily sipping our margaritas (we did manage to get those), before we got some actual lunch. As we always do, we ask about the soup of the day. Previously it had been cream of spinach one day and cream of carrot the other two. Surprise, surprise, today it was cream of spinach and carrot! Surprisingly (or not, as their soups always excellent), it was very good. After working our way through lunch, it was siesta time and a bit more reading before heading down to Roberto's for sunset, which we never actually saw! The Malécon was packed. Families, skateboarders, bicyclists, musicians, the whole town seemed to be gathered before us. We were soon joined by a new friend, Russ, from Vancouver, BC. We have seen him and his wife (Yvonne) regularly for the last couple of years, but have never really spoken until right at the end of last season. He was on his own last night, accompanied by his little dog, and ask to join us. A very interesting fellow. A retired tugboat operator (from a family business of more than a 100 years), Russ and Yvonne have been coming to PV for the last 20 years and own a condo up the hill. Despite the gray skies, it was a very nice evening and we talked until it was clear that the little dog had had enough (of us?). So Russ headed one way and we headed up the hill. We comforted ourselves with some wine and a nice bowl of chicken chowder that I had made earlier in the week. Despite the weather and with a suitable litter box in place, we turned in, Polley, Kira and me!

The next couple of days continued rather cool and cloudy. Each day it was up with plans for the beach, only to have the cloud cover dampen out enthusiasm for the trek. So life remained simple and very routine. With the holidays, there are many Mexican families in town. Hotels are full and the nightlife is active (a polite term for LOUD!). The entertainers are out in force. This fellow plays the Angel Gabriel (I would guess) and it is a feat of engineering, as he hovers a foot or two above the ground

Probably the most successful entrepreneur is a fellow who climbs into his bandito outfit each night and becomes a living photo-op for tourists.

Amazing the creativity that comes with a high unemployment level. I have know idea how much he brings in a night, but he seems to be a very busy man.

Yesterday, the sun broke through and the long-awaited journey to the sea was realized. We visited out old haunt, Langosta Loca and I caught a few rays of sun. We reconnected with our waiter-friend Ricardo and swore that we would be more visible this year. Then it was back to Roberto's for an actual sunset.

They have been few and far between so far. More to come I am sure!

 

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Another Year in PV

One and all, family and Friends,

It is hard to believe that Polley and I find ourselves in Puerto Vallarta for year number 8! I look back and remember the first year meeting a woman who claimed she and her husband had been coming to PV for 25 years. I could not fathom the idea of coming to the same place year after year after year. But here we are, again!

As most of you know, December was a very hard month weather-wise. After such hard, relentless rain, you really come to appreciate drizzle. Sunshine even more. Tuesday, 22 December, we finally got away. It took a bit of doing as our flight was delayed an hour and a half. My sister-in-law warned me, but I had already booked the flight. Avoid San Francisco. It can often get fogged in and air traffic gets backedup. That is exactly what happened to us. About 8:30, we left Portland. There was a terrific tailwind (El Niño is not all bad) and we were down to SFO in an hour and a half. However, we then had to hold for another 20 minutes or so as things were still backedup. We arrived about 10 and they did manage to turn the unload and reload the plane very quickly and by 11 or so we were on our way south. However, by the time we cleared Passport Control and Customs, it was 5:45, nearly two hours laters than scheduled. WE caught a cab and made it to our place by 6:15 or so. My brother and his wife had stayed in the house for November and 10 days of December, so we had the keys. However, our agent was there and soon we were feeling like we were home.

So, the last few days have been settling in. Those of you who have followed this blog previously know the routine. Several days of shopping. Taking in the old cat from up the hill. Our old landlord was quick to see if we wanted company at our place. So, having hardly unpacked (actually, I don't think Polley is done yet), we put chicken wire on the windows, bought catfood and set up a litter box and Kira was back with us. It will be nice to have her, but when we return in April (after taxes and a brief visit home) we are thinking of bringing our cat, Quirk (sadly we are down to one cat as we had to put Caspar down in mid-December), down south with us. He is an indoor cat who needs to get out more!

So the rhythms of life are beginning to be set. We did begin our stay with some sad news. When we arrived for lunch on the second day here, we discovered that José, our very favorit waiter, was not around as his father had passed away. Then later, we wandered down to the Malécon to Roberto's. There we were shocked to find that another delightful waiter, Freddy, had been hit by a car and killed in July. He was only 20! Our visit was not getting off on a positive note. That is what comes of an ongoing relationship with a place. Things come and things go, people come into your life and go out. It begins to make you realize that you have only so many entrances life and then, one day, a final exit as well.

But, as for now, we are here, and the sun shines.

Wer enjoyed the rare Christmas full moon. Had a lovely Christmas dinner at Vitea and have hooked up with some friends from years past. Life is good here, we are warm (and dry) and will continue to share with you our days as they too come and go. Love to all. Merry Christmas and a most Happy New Year.

 

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