Just a brief blog entry today. After our extended trip north of Lecce, we found ourselves worn down.
Thursday, following the journey, was, of necessity, laundry day. As I have indicated before, we always look forward to this part of our weekly routine. Partly, we don’t have to actually stand there and watch the machines go around and swap clothes from the washer to the dryer, always in search of exact change. We just hand the bundles over, they ask us about our preference for water temperature and we are out of there.
While laundry is being done, we slip around the corner to a café/bar called L’Obelisco. There is a giant obelisque in the round-about at the intersection and the bar takes its name from there. We have become accepted regulars, as once a week, like clock-work, we appear and order two glasses of vino bianco and sit on the sidewalk and watch neighborhood life unfold. This particular Thursday, 14 Maggio, they were having music that night, featuring a group that plays tradional music of the region. So, we made a reservation to return that evening for the show.
The show was promoted as starting at 9:30 p.m. We, of course, arrived about 9:15, fully planning to have a glass of wine outside before going in. About 9:30, we made our way to an absolutely empty dining room. There were a number of long tables set up for groups of 15-20. We were at an individual table for two. The band, really a trio was setting up equipment and appeared to be near starting the show. However, at 10 p.m., the band, with everything in place, sat down to dinner! That’s right, they were going to eat first. Now, granted, there was hardly anyone to play for, but to our way of thinking, we were already half an hour late.
About that time, people began to drift in. A lesson we have obviously learned is that you don’t show up until the band begins to eat!
The show got underway about 10:45 with the place quite full. The music of this region is very rhythmic. The Tarentella is the dance of the region. There are a number of stories behind the origins of the dance and the music. But most involve its growing out of the kind of spastic gyrations of a person upon discovering his being bitten by a tarantula. Anyway, it is very percussive with the flat, Irish-like drum providing the driving beat. This group used a mandolin and a variety of flutes and short horns for the melody.
At times they also used guitar, while we have seen other groups with an accordion as well. But the repetitive, pounding drum is always present.
As you listen to it, there is a real sense of the blending of cultures, both European and Middle Eastern. A regional dance has also developed to this music and there were several in the audience who were quite accomplished. It is a typical folkdance and not particularly sophisticated, but is highly energetic and seems to be based around a kind of sexual pursuit. The couples never touch, but as the man pursues, the woman back away, may do a series of turns and often the man approaches and circles his partner. I wanted to capture a bit of it, but there was such little light and so much movement that I was not very successful.
The show went on until about midnight and Celia, our almost landlady, showed up and joined us for the show. As were the only non-Italians in the place, I felt we had truly gotten a peak at some very unique to the area. The food was not bad either, as I had a special gnocchi of the region in a spicy tomato sauce with shrimp. About midnight, it all came to an end (it was doubtless time for the band to have dessert) and we strolled back home on another lovely southern Italian night.
Saturday we went exploring for a Ficus tree that a waitress had insisted we see. She said it was over 60 feet high. Having killed a couple of these in their infancy, we could hardly believe it. But sure enough it was there and is said to be the largest in all of Europe -- Imagine, right here in our urban backyard!
The weekend saw a big exposition on energy conservation. Exhibits were set up all over Lecce, featuring wind and solar power demonstrations. Actually, I am not sure howmuch energy was spent on energy conservation. There was a concert on Friday night and then last night there was another huge concert, featuring some major European rock star, whose name I could never find written out and could never completely understand. It was Piero ???. After a dinner at Trumpet, we wandered down to the Piazza to hear Piero whoever.
The place was packed, but frankly I found the music of Thursday night more interesting. Our friend, Paulina, treated us to a glass of wine and we listened to the show until about music, but, quite frankly, lost interest and drifted back home. Weather continues warm, but there were a few rainclouds, but nothing to spoil the evening for those literally or emotionally about 14.
Ed and Polley
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