Lazy Days, Here and There

One and all,

We proudly report that little has occurred in the last couple of days. The weather has been ideal and our routine travels along the "Oregon Trail," from beer to margaritas to wine has been maintained. We have also gotten into a routine of lunch out and dinner in one day and then the opposite. It helps the budget a bit, but most of all, it provides a variety both in restaurants and in our activities in our own "kitchen." I did a stir-fry the other night and yesterday we enjoyed some chicken soup that I had made up from the left overs of Pollo Feliz. The roasted jalapño that I threw in added a bit of zip to the whole thing.

Wednesday was lunch out with our friends Neal and Judy Higgins.

We enjoyed their hangout at The Red Onion (La Cebolla Roja), sipping on some very strong margaritas and sharing a shrimp cocktail. Sadly, they leave on Saturday for home, but it has been fun to connect with this former UP prof.

While I say the weather has been ideal, the sea and the tides have been incredible. Almost every morning as I take my constitutional, the sea has wiped out the beach front cafes. It is not until 10 or 10:30 when they waiters can finally set up chairs and tables. Yesterday I was on the Malécon early and watch the sea wash up over the wall

Just moments after this photo, a family was sitting on the wall, enjoying the sun as it came up, and were absolutely drenched by a huge wave that swept in unannounced!

The town has seemed very busy the past couple of days. Cruise ships continue to make PV a port of call.

Thank God they do, for so many are dependent upon these visits, usually 4 or five a week. However, there are not nearly as many as in the good old days.

We continue to be dazzled by the color of the Mexican world.

This was a rooftop vine just down from place. And last night, as we made our way over to a restaurant in the Coloso area of town, we stopped on the island below us at a little cafe which is situated opposite a very colorful Cultural Center

It is very active with painting classes and music offerings. As I say, it sits in a lovely, lush, cat-filled park that we wander through nearly every day.

And, of course, the end of most days have been highlighted by a sunset. Wednesday night was especially entertaining. It started with clear skies and intense sun

Then the colors softened as the sun disappeared beyond the horizon

Then they, just as suddenly, warmed again

and that intensity grew and grew.

It was a quite spectacular and prolonged light show. You never know what the sunset will be, but that, I think, is the reason we a drawn to it on a nearly nightly basis. And when we don't make it there, we can't help wondering what we missed.

So, all continues well and we are nearly as relaxed as this little guy who seems to have made himself at home.

More soon!

 

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C(K)eys, Cats, Color and Clouds

One and all,

Lo siento! Estoy un poco tarde con mi blog. Ayer, dormimos un poco tarde y no tengo mucho tiempo por el blog! (I am sorry! I am a little late with my blog. Yesterday, we slept a little late and I did not have much time for the blog)

Enough for excuses. Let's get to the last 3 days. There was a bit of drama in them. It began on Sunday night when we were scheduled for dinner and a cabaret show. As we approached the restaurant, discovered I had forgotten the tickets. So I sent Polley on to a meal and I grabbed a cab and rushed back up the hill for the tickets. My español got me to have the cab wait and then it was back to the restaurante, having made good time, but 120 peso poorer!

We had a nice meal, excellent tortilla soup at Mama Rose's and then it was on the Kim Kuzma show. She is very talented and the 6 musicians she has backing her up were fabulous. As I mentioned earlier, we had seen her last year. This year was in a new venue and for some reason the show was not as strong. Part of the problem for me, was to quote the Duke or King or whatever of Vienna, in the show Amadeus, "too many notes!" She, at times, seemed to add so much ornamentation to the song that I, in places, lost the melody. However, we were with good friends and had plenty to drink, so it was not a complete loss. The drama came at the end of the show. I did not have our house key! Not just the key to our front door, but the key to the gate that lets us in to the compound. Horrors! I also, in my infinite wisdom, did not have a phone. Going to a show, I didn't want the off chance that is would go off. So, with no way to contact our landlord and no way to get in, we caught a cab up the hill and prayed.

We got to the gate and I called for someone to come down and at least let us in. After two or three plaintive calls (nearly weeping) to our neighbors, there appeared a faintly lighted apparition of a small child moving toward me holding out a set of keys on a lanyard: my keys! I had apparently dropped them in my haste to unlock the door and grab the tickets. This little angel, the patron saint of lost keys, had found them and awaited my eventual return. We were saved. We got in and I immediately found some reward money for the small child and thanked her effusively! Again, I do love happy endings.

After all of that, the rest of our past days were divinely calm. We did have some significant cat events. The first of which involved a beautiful feral cat that Polley has been wooing for the last month. The cat, "the black-eared kitty," is clearly interested in being domesticated. She now comes into our place and approaches us, but just can't quite go the next step. A couple of days ago, as I awoke from our siesta, I found her on the end of the bed!

I took the photo as Polley was still sleeping and I wanted definite proof that progress had been made! I also managed to capture of tentative alliance between Lucie (our landlord's mother's cat) and the newest addition to our menagerie: a little kitten who is owed by someone upstairs, but seems to live and create mischief at our place.

Cute, but he is a devil as well as a bottomless pit!

Color continues to abound here and with my wife's eye for it, we are continually stopping to appreciate some stunning bit of nature. These were some sort of fruit that dropped at the trunk of a tree on our way up the hill

Some wonderful reds, greens and even a bit of yellow against the gray concrete. Then as we approached out place, this bush and flowers caught our eye

Amazing and wonderfully cheap entertainment for those who take the time to look.

And, of course, there are the sunsets. There have been some good ones lately, particuarly when there are some clouds off which to bounce the color.

It seemed a bit like the moment of the "Big Bang." Later than evening it softened a bit

That is the striking thing about the sunsets here. You need to stay with them until they completely disappear, as often the best is at the very end

There were very few clouds here, but the light along the horizon became very intense. As Polley and I left Roberto's last night and walked the Malécon, heading for dinner, I caught this moment right on the bridge where the Rio Cuale meets the sea

We strolled a bit further and a sailboat (and a sign) was nicely silhouetted against the sky.

it is all very magical: the color, the cats and the clouds, but do hang on to your c(k)eys. More soon, I promise.

 

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Walks with Friends

One and all,

Not a great deal to report over the last two days. And, frankly, that is the way we like it. After the Thursday surprise rain storm, the weather has been ideal: low 80s, gradually cooling off to the low 60s for excellent sleeping.

I am starting a new feature on this blog: Trying to be Mexican. Periodically, I will select a person at random and ask them to compare thier skin tone to mine as I dedicate myself to the Mexican sun. My first willing victim was Arturo, as Langosta Loca:

Mine is the hand on the right. Still not Mexican!

These last couple of days were also about friends. We had some drinks at their very fancy condo and then on to a nice dinner at Hacienda Fantasía with Neal and Judy Higgins. Neal was an Associate Dean in the School of Business at UP and we have been hooking up with them the last several years. Sadly, they will only be in PV for a month this year and will be returning to Portland next Saturday. February seems to be the busiest month down here and they simply could not find a unit for that period of time.

Friday morning as I was walking the Malécon, I caught up with another Oregon friend: George Gray. He of the silver hair and the dapper black shirt and dog (perhaps a new superhero: Dapper Dog), demanded a photo

We are going to dinner tonight with George and his partner, Pat. They are both from Salem, part time as they also have a home in Las Vegas and, of course, here. After dinner, we are seeing a cabaret show with a fabulous performer, Kim Kuzma, who we saw last year. She has a new show that we have heard great things about. I will report on Tuesday.

Yesterday, it was another walk with a friend. This was actually a hike with our waiter friend, José. On his day off, he like to hike into the hills behind the city. He invited me to accompany him yesterday and it was a hike.

We headed up out of a little pueblo call Paso Ancho, about mile east of PV. It is amazing how quickly you can leave the hubbub and hustle of the city and suddenly feel the stillness of the countryside.

The road we took runs right along the Rio Cuale which is a lovely river that runs through PV and right to the sea under the Malécon. As we hiked we stopped at a nearly literal "hole-in-the-wall and got a couple of beers and as we crossed the Cuale I got this moment with José

just before we carried on up into the hills

This shot is from quite high up, looking back towards PV. While the area is quite isolated, there are a few lovely spots where people have carved out a home

This place is owned by the parents of the fellow who runs the bar up at Canopy Adventures, a zip-line, ATV adventure place located at the end of our climb. One thing about José is that he knows everybody! Every roadside laborer, every passing truck driver, every storefront Mexican seems to know José. When we got to Canopy Adventures, the bartender offered us the use of his grounds for a little fiesta if every the mood should strike us.

It is a lovely setting and I hope that we will return to it before our 3 months are over. We did make the climb to Canopy Adventures and stopped for a little more beer, some chip, salsa and some excellent gucamole.

The guacamole was very distinctive and they told us they use an avacado that is grown locally. They truly made a difference. After that, it was the return trip. The downhill bit went quite quickly and within 30 minutes we were back to Paso Ancho, the truck and the ride back to civilization. I jumped out at the bidge and stopped into see my cat food lady and took Polley 3 kilos of Whiskers as a token of my devotion.

Poor Polley, having been held captive in our apartment all day as a result of our "día de los hombres," man day, was invited for some wine and a sunset followed by a 2 x 1 champagne special that I discovered at El Patio. The sunset was quite dramatic

It started with what I often refer to as a "Biblical" sunset with the dramatic light and contrasting clouds. Following that, as the sun descended, the sun was nearly shut out, except for this tiny break in the clouds through which there was a bright beacon

That is why we make a point of trying as often as possible to make sunset. You never what you are going to get. But, as they say, "that's why you play the game." And so, we press on. Happy Weekend!

 

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El Tiempo Variable - The Variable Weather

One and all,

While my relaying of our days has a comforting redundancy, these last two days have been distinctive for their variation in terms of weather. Most of the days have been sunny and in the low 80s. However, when we go to the beach, about 10:45 each day, and sit in the sun, we can really only sustain the direct sunlight for about 15 minutes, before retreating to an umbrella and the shade. We usually return to the sun for another 10 minutes or so, but that is the extent of our "tomar del sol" - the taking of the sun.

That temperature is pretty much maintained until the sun goes down. There has been, thankfully, a light breeze, and because our apartment is up at the top of a hill, it is always 4 or 5 degrees cooler than what you get as you head down to the beach. You can literally feel the difference as you descend. However, the minute the sun goes down, things can change dramatically. Some nights it stays lovely and warm, others it can become chilly almost immediately.

These last two days have provided nearly everything. First, the sea has been amazingly rough, with some of the highest waves we have seen since coming down here 7 years ago (can you believe that!). However, the Boogie Boarders are having the time of their lives.

Crowds have been gathering along the Malécon to watch these kids ride the big ones. It is not exactly the north side of Oahu, but for PV it is pretty exciting stuff.

Unfortunately the camera can't really capture the scale as we see it from the beach, but in the midst of clear, blue sky, the sea seems to be of an entirely different mood. In the last couple of days, as I go out walking, who sections of beach, normally filled with restaurant tables, are flooded and proprietors can only wait for the sea to subside before opening for business. Even then, a rogue wave will come in and drown the shoes and bags of unsuspecting customers.

At the same time, just down the hill, in our neighborhood, it is alive with color. Polley had meet take this photo of the vegetation in our "hood," in contrast to the absolutely incredible blue sky

Such vivid colors abound. And, of course, there are the PV sunsets. It is our favorite early evening trek, down to the beach to see what sort of show nature will give us on a particular night. Last night, for instance, we got nothing! After a very clear day, the bay suddenly clouded over and their, literally was no evidence of the sun as it, we assume, descended at its normal time. I saw in the online Oregonian that Portland is now getting sunset just after 5 pm. We are now getting it at about 6:45. Quite a difference. The night before, however, what with the waves and the sun set, was quite entertaining

That bank of clouds, that completely blocked the sun on Thursday night, offered a slight break the previous evening.

Always something new in our life of routine: from the beach and two beers, to La Fuente and two margaritas, to Roberto's and a little wine. We also continue to subsidise a number of musicians. Wednesday was the birthday of a new fellow in the kitchen, who, naturally, needed to be seranaded by Costa Brava - 3 great musicians and great guys.

Yesterday, we got an offering from the other trio that works the restaurants that we frequent. The one fellow, Lorenzo, also has a little sideline, manipulating balloons. He made Polley this heart with two doves (Las Palomas) cooing at one another (use your imagination).

Lastly, returning to the subject of variable weather, where this whole rambling began. we sat last night, about 8 pm, after our disappointing (non-existent?) sunset at another little haunt half way up the hill to our apartment - "El Patio de Mi Casa" and as we were finishing yet another margarita (2 x 1 last night!), we felt a few sprinkles. Over the next 5 minutes, after choosing to ingore the rain initially, the drops got bigger and seemed to be falling a little more frequently. We decided to head up the hill for home. By the time we arrived, 5 minutes later, it had grown to a mini-monsoon. 15 minutes later there was nothing "mini" about it. Suddenly, there was thunder and it began to absolutely pour. It continued for nearly 90 minutes and even as I type this on Friday morning, there are distant rumblings of thunder along with the pounding of the surf. Who knows what Friday will provide. Stay tuned/

 

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A Couple of Days Seaside

One and all,

First, let me begin by wishing "cumpliaños feliz" to our daughter-in-law, Cyndi, who is enjoying, we hope, another birthday. Sorry we can't be there to share it with you, but, actually, you would most likely be happier celebrating down here. Have a great day.

Also, as our friends, Beth and Alice, Mexico on Sunday, they sent us this photo, featuring themselves, of course, standing under the now famous bridge that was built more than 50 years ago, to connect the houses of Liz Taylor and Richard Burton, while Burton was here filming "The Night of the Iguana," the film that began the explosion of PV.

Both houses are completely gutted at this time, as the restoration of them has been held up in the Mexican bureaucracy. By the time the places are restored, no one will remember either of the famous lovers. As you look at the picture, Li's place is to the right and Richard's to the left. These are nearly a stone's throw from where we live.

I did reference the "seaside" in my title today as it seems that Polley and I spent a great deal of time at the beach in the last two days. The weather, of course, has been perfect. Monday, to make up for holing up with pro football on Sunday, we made a concerted effort to get out. Mid-morning we made our way to Langosta Loca for "Beer on the Beach." It was a lively day, as the pelicans were guiding a group of fishermen to where the sardines were running.

They were pretty good size fellows and nearly anyone with a line or a net, could haul them in. Except this fellow, who had opted for tequila instead.

Later that evening we returned to Langosta for dinner. The restaurant is really a kind of beachside shack with a very basic kitchen, featuring the charcoal grill for cooking fish. But the results from the kitchen are excellent. We shared the seafood soup which was filled with a huge amount of various seafood, all for about $6! We then sat back and enjoyed a couple of margaritas and watched a lovely setting sun

Actually, I had a number of pictures of this night's sunset, but I loved the silhouette provided by this one

Tuesday it was down to the beach again. At some point, the crowd on the beach gathered around a fellow who had something significant at the end of his line. It was . . .

an eel. It was paraded around for photo opportunities and then released back into the sea, apparently not much good for more than publicity.

Tuesday's are also the special day at Pollo Feliz. This is the grilled chicken place that, on martes, gives your 1 1/2 chickens for the price of a whole. So we get the whole deal and then share the half with the staff at La Fuente del Puente and take the whole one home for ourselves and the various cats, of course.

So, with the plan for dinner in, we went back down to the sea for sunset, With some wine at Roberto's we sat and watched the pelicans, who had followed a new school of sardines

The sky had turned cloudy and we were not too enthused about the sunset, that is, until after it set and the sky turned a dramatic contrast of gray and a whole gradation of reds.

A very "Constable," moment. That is, if John Constable had been in Mexico instead of stuck in dreary England. Or, perhaps, with the firey reds, this brings to mind J.M.W.Turner

Anyway, it was "impresionante"! And it was a lovely couple days on the beach. Life continues to be good!

 

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