Monday, January 30, 2012

"Backing" into Mexico

One and all,

I am sure at this point that most, if not all of you, are tired of hearing about the progress or, at times, the lack of progress with my back problems. Frankly, little else is going on. Every hour or so, Polley inquires as to “how I am feeling,” and I respond accordingly: “not so great,” “about the same,” or “pretty good.” We then make our way down the hill and measure my progress by the number of rest stops I need to make, most times because of pain, and, occasionally, usually on the trek uphill, because I am winded, having had little or no exercise for about 5 ½ weeks. Unbelievable!

At this point, I am pleased to report that progress is being made. Saturday was a quite good day in terms of the number of rest stops I needed to make. However, yesterday was positively terrific. We made it down to La Fuente, needing just a single rest stop. Perhaps the first time that has happened since arriving. After a couple of beers for fortification, we then proceeded to Guadalajara Pharmacy, located about 6 blocks further into town. I needed one brief pause for that journey. Because of my limitations, we had not really ever stocked up on necessary items. We had been living off what we could get from a little local grocery store that is about the size of a phone booth and a half! Finally, necessity (the local store had completely run out of cat food!) and my encouraging improvement allowed us to venture down the street. For me, walking has been somewhat limited, but standing in place has been truly painful. 20-30 seconds and I have had to find a place to sit. So the fear with grocery shopping was no so much getting to the store, but getting around in the store. In actuality, things went quite smoothly although I do confess to attacking the store with a kind of commando attitude and did have to take a brief break on a step outside before making the second assault. We did get it done, however, and then, with our bundles and my trusty cane, we grabbed a cab to take us most of the way up the hill.

Of course, one fairy successful and painless excursion does not necessarily assure that I am better. As you know, I have had other good days, only to have the following day be discouraging. However, yesterday was different. After coming back from our trip and having lunch, we were scheduled to have dinner at Vitea, our regular standing reservation at our favorite restaurant. So about 6:45, we started down the hill. Vitea is about 1/3 of a mile from us. In that distance, I needed to only pause twice! Even the second break was more for convenience than necessity. Things were definitely on the mend. We had a lovely and leisurely dinner with a very nice Greek salad and a complex and flavorful crab cannelloni. Delicious! Again, we grabbed a cab for the brief trip up the hill. But the important thing was that it had been a busy day and I seemed none the worse for wear. WE don’t want to push it too hard, but I do feel that I can say that the corner has definitely been turned. Updates for follow.

Saturday, January 28, 2012

A Long Day, but the Best Day Yet!

One and all,

Well, I am sure that most, if not all of you, are sick of the daily (maybe very other daily) health releases, but at least this one is quite positive. Yesterday we were invited to join the “Dancing Couple” and some of their friends for a trip up the Rio Cuale River to the new place, El Rio BBQ, that is owned by the former owner of Época, a restaurant/bar that we have frequented the last 4 years. Kurt Sinner, the owner and a Portlander, lost his lease at the end of last season and, after a bit of time off , has opened this new place about 4 or 5 miles up river. It seems a bit of a risk as it is certainly not on the beaten path. But upon arriving there, it may be a piece a paradise, pleasantly removed from the noise and bustle of downtown PV.

It was a beautiful day. The weather this January has been some of the best, with the temperatures in the low 80s everyday and no hint of rain. We met Ray and Mary Anne and there friends at Vista del Sol. This is the condominium unit that Época was housed in. Kurt had arranged for a shuttle to take about 10 of us to his place for an afternoon of swimming (if you didn’t have sore back), food, drink, and music. Upon arrival, I think everyone agreed, it was paradise. Kurt has done a first class job of creating a very special ambiance. There is a dining area, smoked ribs and fish are the specialties. He has built a large and beautiful Palapa and then has created his own beach that runs right down to the Rio Cuale River. It is perfect for sunbathing and for cooling off in the bright, brisk-running stream. We had a it of lunch with Mary Anne and Ray

and commenced to enjoy a beautiful afternoon.

For me, it really was the first real outing. Up to this point it has been largely the walk up and down the hill, and cabs that whisked us to the door of a restaurant. This was going to be a full day out and about. Granted, there would always be a place to sit and there was no extended time on my feet, but it was going to be about a 6 hour day with no place to lie down on a heating pad. By and large, it went well. The last hour or so I was tired, but never any sharp pain.

Shortly after arriving, we were surprised and thrilled to find former UP business professor, Neal Higgins and his wife Judy. Without either of us knowing it, we had come to El Rio on the same day. Ironically, while waiting for the shuttle at Vista del Sol, where Neal and Judy are staying, I had wandered down to the beach to see if they were in their accustomed spots on the beach. Come to find out, they were up river and we had a nice chance to visit with them.


At 3, the music commenced under the palapa. Our Scots friend, Bobby and a brilliant guitar player, Roberto, played a non-stop two hours.

and as the beer flowed and the music intensified, there was lots of dancing, some worthy of note and a great deal embarrassing.

But a great time was had by all. By the end of the afternoon, I think most all agreed that El Rio was going to become a regular Friday event.

We caught the shuttle back into town, had a drink up at Neal and Judy’s place and foolishly caught a cab to La Fuente for a quick meal. I say foolishly, because shortly after sitting down and ordering, we realized that we were not only not very hungry, but we were exhausted. After eating about a third of the calamari, we boxed it to go and climbed up the hill, slowly. A quick nightcap, an ibuprofen and we were out. However, it was a good day and I felt confident that better days would lie ahead.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Two Steps Forward and One Step Back

One and all,

Little new in life, as I continue to mend very slowly. As I mentioned a couple of days ago, there is a good day, followed by a not so good day. The positive, I guess, is that Polley and I are continuing to get out at least once a day and in most cases twice.

Tuesday evening we grabbed a cab and headed for a little Italian pizza place, Pomodoro y Basilico (Tomato and Basil – how bad can the place be?) In my best Spanish I told the cabby where it was, but he was very skeptical. However, he quickly and efficiently followed the directions and we arrived. It sits back in a little plaza, Plaza Romy, and so many are not even aware of its presence. But because of that, it is a quiet and charming place, back on the street from traffic and other noise. Polley and I used to think they had the best Pizza in PV, but our little nightly haunt, El Patio is Mi Casa, has even better. However, Pomodoro does have some very intriguing combinations of toppings. This time it was a white sauce, with potatoes, sausage, machego cheese and a mystery herb. Very good, but can’t match the crust at El Patio. Polley and I caught a cab back, with a stop at El Patio for a couple of beers before my nightly exercise of getting back up the hill. As I back improves and I move a bit faster, I discover that in the last 5 weeks (5 weeks today) I have really gotten out of shape. I gave gone from walking a 100 plus miles a month, to traveling about 1/3 of mile, twice a day.

Yesterday, we went down the hill at noon and met for lunch with our good friend George, his partner, Pat and a lovely friend of theirs, Molly. We had seen George a couple of days earlier, but had not met up with Pat or Molly. It was great fun to see them and we had a lovely lunch at our daily watering hole, La Fuente del Puente. Good food, great friends, and some very lively conversation. It felt like the PV we had come to know. However, by the time the two hours had gone by I was pretty wiped out. George had brought some new meds that had helped him in his recovery of a very similar problem, so I was anxious to give them a go. Sad to report that there did not seem to be much immediate relief and, in fact, because of the busy morning, ended up with a lousy evening which accounts for the title, “Two Steps Forward and One Step Back.” That has been the nature of our ten days here. There is certainly improvement, but after each good day, comes a difficult day and a reminder that this is not going to fix itself as quickly as I might like. Still, the weather is great and we are finding the means to get around and see some people. Just is a little more of a production than one might wish.

We spent last night in eating our leftover Pollo Felice. We are certainly saving money on this trip. Perhaps we can have a real blowout once mobility returns. More to come.

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

A Peek Around the Corner

One and all,

Well, there is a sense that perhaps this bloody nerve issue may have turned a corner. Well, perhaps turning is being a little over confident. Let’s say that is appears that I have at least peeked around the corner!

Sunday evening I made it down to our restaurant, Vitea. It took about 20 minutes for the quarter or third of a mile trek with numerous curb-side stops. I may take a hat next time and hold it our to passersby. I may pick up a peso or two. Was nice to be back there and the staff is so nice. One of the things that brings you back to a place 5 years in a row is the relationship you build with the people. They knew our table, they remembered that we mostly share meals and that we are loyal and will be coming back each Sunday evening for the next 9 weeks. Two other things that you may remember about our Sunday evening visits to Vitea are that Bobby, the beloved Scots hippy musician plays there that night and Sunday evenings are the nights that most Mexican families take off and it is such a delight to watch them stroll along the Malécon, husbands and wives, and all the children. They are lovely, handsome people and are very family-oriented.

Monday was time for our phone all home to Rae, that allows us to check in on Portland life. It appears, despite our two delays, that we got out of the Northwest just in time. There was snow on the ground in Seattle the morning we passed through there, but apparently that was just a preview of what was to come. The weather here has been great, much more pleasant than a year ago.

It was down to La Fuente for Monday noon and we were so lucky. As I was sitting there (Polley had gone to Pollo Felice [Happy Chicken] for that night’s dinner – Ah, my little hunter and gatherer), our dear friend George walked by. I shouted for him and he soon joined me, and eventually, Polley for lunch. George is on the back end of exactly what I am going through. It was helpful to hear his experiences and the timeline for it. I know it is very individualized, but it was about 6 weeks before he began to feel improvement. I am about half way through week 5. Anyway, it may be George’s positivity along with the time that made me aware of some improvement. He also has some other anti-inflammatory drugs to give me on Wednesday. That may help as well. Anyway, it was nice to see an old friend and to forget about the pain for a while.

From there it was back up the hill and we spent the rest of the day and evening in. Just our books, a little tequila, and our very happy chicken. A good day and hoping it is something to build on. More soon. Internet connection this year is very erratic. Our landlord has a new modem, but at times I can get internet on the computer, but not on the ipad, other times it’s the other way around. Frustrating.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Baby Steps

One and all,

As my brother reminded me just moments ago, I have been out of touch. It is not that I am any worse, it is just that I find that by the time I have gone down the hill and back up twice a day, there is not a lot of energy. That doesn't even count that which is expended in the shower. HOwever, on this the one month anniversary of this dreaded attack, I can report some improvement. AS the Title suggest, baby steps, but there is discernible progress . . . I think!

We are venturing a bit farther, albeit by taxi. Last Thursday evening we made it half way down the hill when a cab wandered by and we were able to take it to Nacho Daddy's, a local, lively restaurant with live (and loud) music. We met up with Ray and Mary Anne, the dancing couple from Vitoria along with Gene and Gay, a lovely Southern couple from Atlanta that we met right at the end of last year, and a new acquaintance, Reg, a wheat farmer from Winnipeg. Very nice fellow. Also we again found Bobby, our Scottish flute player. It was great to see them all again, but the thing I hate about Nacho Daddy's is that it is so loud that it is hardly conducive to conversation. Nevertheless, it was great to reconnect and did serve as motivation to get us out of the apartment.

Friday was a baby step backwards. For no rhyme or reason, it was a tough night and a rather painful day. While we did make it down to our regular haunts, it was not fun. There are still what we refer to brief periods of suicide contemplation! Fortunately, at my age, they fade before I can remember where I hid the gun!

Yesterday was a good day, Mother May I take two steps forward! Very little pain and two easy trips down and back up the hill. Again, we caught a cab yesterday evening for a new place, La Luna. We went there because we had heard from Reg that our favorite bartender in the world, Hannah Blossom (can you believe that name) was working there. And, indeed, she was! What a lovely person. She was the bartender at Epoca and in this new place, the chef from Epoca is the chef there. Reg joined us and, in fact, disappeared after secretly buying our dinner! Reg is in his 50s I would guess, never married and just hangs about PV for 5 months and then returns to plant and harvest his wheat. Neat guy, but as a single gentlemen seems to always feel he is horning in on us couples. Not true. We enjoy his company, and, I am sure for Polley, that after me being flat on my back for a month, she is thrilled to interact with someone new. We will catch up with Reg soon and pay him back for his kindnesses.

The weather continues lovely. Much warmer than last year at this time. Going to try going even further down the hill tonight to our favorite place, Vitea. I will, I am sure, have more to report on that tomorrow.

Ed and Polley

Saturday was a

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Good Days and Bad Days

Faithful Readers,

Sorry for the one day absence, but my ailment leaves me with good days and bad days. Yesterday as not very good. Actually, that is only partially true. We did make it down the hill in a record-setting two rest stops and had a nice lunch with our friends at La Fuente. They are such a nice staff and genuinely seem to be having a good time. I am aware of how many people return year after year to see the waiters, especially Jose, who treats us so well. He has now gone to including Polley's white wine in the two-for-one happy hour. Not normally of the offerings. For what appears to be a very touristy spot, they have wonderful food. We just had the guacamole yesterday and some very simple quesadillas today.

Last night we returned to El Patio es mi Casa (the old Candela) for some wine. Our sphere of travel is still very limited. Down the hill one way, or down the hill the other. That is about the extent for now. However, at the invitation of Ray and Mary Anne Sander, friends from Victoria, we will work our way down the hill, catch a cab and join them a Nacho Daddy's for some too loud music and too large portions. We call Ray and Mary Anne the dancing couple, as they love to dance and do it so well. Two people who seem to enjoy life and each other.

Polley reminds me that each day does get a little better. The climb up from El Patio was very painful and I had a difficult time sleeping, so, naturally, I was a little depressed. AS an active person and devoted walker, this is difficult. I also need to remind myself that we have only been here 3 full days. My goal is to be back to normal by Polley's birthday, February 14th. We will see. Staying active as much as possible does seem to help so I might make it.

I sincerely wish I had more to report than simple trips down the hill and back up. The weather has been lovely, a bit overcast at times and by some standards a bit humid, but it has been warm and very comfortable. It has to be better than what I have been reading about Portland. I will let this go for now as we will betrying our next adventure. I will report on that tomorrow. Stay warm and dry.

Ed and Polley

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Day 2

One and all,

As reported yesterday, we are here in Puerto Vallarta. We got settled in and then tried to venture out. Partially, we were starving, and I also wanted to test the back. It was a bit of an ordeal. Hobbling down (I am attempting to keep the drama to a minimal) the hill, we did, indeed, have to stop, sit and rest a number of times before reaching an intersection. Our intention was to have a drink and some dinner at Mi Patio es su Casa, the old Candela from years past. As I was gasping for breath and trying to calm the stabbing hot wire running down my thigh, Polley went ahead to see if Mi Patio was open. NOT! So there we were, middle of the street with little around us, deciding what to do next. As with the Star of Bethlehem, we spied a light coming from a second story establishment that had once been a bar. We slowly (believe me, very slowly) made our way up the steps and came upon 4 people at a bar. Come to find out, this new place, Uno Mas (One More), was not open. However, Tony, the manager and Wayne, the bleached blonde,hippy Canadian pseudo Vietnam vet owner with a kind of Scots accent invited us to join them for a glass of wine and a beer. Things were in a bit of disarray, but we shared a drink and put there Grand Opening (February 4th) on our calendar. However, there was no food.

So with thigh throbbing (alright, perhaps a bit too dramatic), we headed for a pizza place (any place!) further away then either of us would have liked. Scrambling for chair and some relief, we sat and had a pleasant, though rather mediocre, dinner. The one saving grace was that the place was directly across from a Taxi stand. We took a cab as far as the road would allow and then crawled (again, a bit dramatic) our way up the remaining 83 steps. Home!

The night was warm and pleasant and we did not climb out of bed until nearly 9 am. We had started at 2 am Pacific Time the day before. A lovely morning in which we continued to set up the apartment and make lists of things we were missing. Then it was our second descent on the hill. Destination, La Puente del Fuente, our favorite daytime little hang out. Now equipped with a cane, provided by our landlord, we made it there. It was great to see everyone, Jose, Raphael, Alexandro, and the rest of the gang. They do have the best calamari and we did partake, along with a little wine and beer. Then the adventure really began. We caught a cab to take us to a small local grocery. They had none of the supplies we needed, so then it was on to a larger grocery store (supermercado). I have always wanted to take a cab and tell him to wait for me, like they do in the movies, so we did. Polley and I went in, with the leg pounding like a taut base drum (more drama!), I sent Polley to get cat food (of course) while I got the other items. Polley had misheard me and was combing the store for tequila (the words, of course, are very similar) and so when I got the checkout stand, she was no where to be found. Now the leg was really a mess and I am mumbling to myself language the drill instructor had used in Full Metal Jacket, wondering where the bitch had gone! Paying for everything, including the cat food I had sent Polley to find, I go out to the cab, hoping she might be there. NOT! So, now, I return to the store,pushing old women and children out of the way with my cane, and begin, truly, shouting out Polley's name in a kind of wounded wolf howl. She answers, in a similar mournful cry. For a brief moment, mating comes to mind, but I dismiss it. There she comes, hobbling down the aisle loaded down with everything we had needed and that I have already bought. I tear the groceries from her arms and shove her into the waiting cab, grabbing my thigh that seems to covered in agent orange. The poor cab driver, with no English, senses a level of tension and speeds us up the hill, as close as motorized transportation can take us (within 83 steps, more or less), where we begin the final assault. Home, at last, we cling to each other, having survived day two in PV. More to follow.

Monday, January 16, 2012

Our Return to PV

One and all,

For most of you who read our travel drivel, you are probably aware of our delayed excursion this year. Ed (me) was hit with a sciatic nerve/spinal stenosis probably out of the blue on December 22. We were scheduled to head to PV on January 2nd. WE delayed for a week. January 9th came, we delayed again. He continued to improve, but very slowly as he had been warned by doctors, chiropractors, acupuncturists and physical therapists. So, after nearly a month, we arrived in PV this afternoon, Monday, January 16th in the hopes that sunshine and warm weather will do as much as the prednisone and ibuprofen. We will see. I still have issues and they may continue for the next 10 weeks that we are here. Standing for a sustained period of time (more than 2 minutes) is very painful and extensive walking is difficult. We are just going to have to feel our way. But we are back in our same apartment from last year and while Polley is busy unpacking (she has been a saint, putting up with an essentially worthless husband for the last 4 weeks), I am just letting friends and family know that we are here and the travels went smoothly. I recommend wheelchair assistance for all travel! We were whisked around the airport, rushed through passport control and taken directly to our waiting vehicle. Our landlord was kind enough to meet us at the airport. However, the day has taken its toll, so I am just stopping here, with more to follow on our time here and my recovery in the days to come.

Ed and Pollety