The Last Full Day

Dear Friends and Family,

Perhaps the title should be the last "complete" day, as we don't anticipate that it will be particularly full. As it has been a while since my last communication, it may suggest that little of note has happened. That is true. In fact, I thought this photo best captured our lives for the last several weeks

Kira has been our role model. Unfortunately it all comes to an end tomorrow, both for her, as we return her to her former home, as well as for us, to the airport about 1:30 Sunday afternoon and back in Portland about 9 that night.

It has been a good stay in our new place. We feel so lucky to have it. We did learn a bit more about the place. A few days ago, a Mexican man was leading a couple on a private tour and they stopped in front of our place and he began to tell them about the house. So, I seized the opportunity and went out to ask the fellow if he could share the infor with Polley and myself as well. Well, he did. He came in and told us this was known as the "Treasure House," because legend has it that a treasure was buried beneath the place. He also revealed that the place was not originally a house at all, but, in fact, was a barn in which the kept the donkeys and other animals. The burros were taken down Guerrero Street to the sea where they were used to carry the unloaded fish and other supplies that were brought in. Once we learned this, and looked at the place with this new information, we could see it as a barn

The shape of the building, the very high barn-like rafters and open, tile roof and the three large double doors necessary to bring animals in and out

A barn indeed. Fascinating!

The weather here has turned very warm in the last week to 10 days. We have decided, as we did when we stayed in PV in the fall, that, ideally, you don't want to arrive here much before November 15th and you don't want to remain here much after May 15th. It just become sticky and humid before and after those dates. It hit 90 yesterday and the thunderstorm season looks to be beginning not long after we leave. Perfect timing.

Other than that, we have been enjoying some sun in our back courtyard (although that is getting pretty hot as well), having some nice lunches out and getting in a few dramatic sunsets. May does seem to be a good month for those as most of the clouds are gone in the evening and there is just this intense, big round ball of sun

The crowds are gone and often as we sit at Roberto's on the Malécon, we are the only two in the restaurant.

So, that has been our daily life. Not complaints, but from our sparse communications, it has been "nothing to write home about!" So, as we begine to sweep out the barn and pack up, we wish all the best to you and look forward to our 6 months (can you believe it!) in Portland (and Bend, Will and Natacha) and the chance to be with friends and family. See you all soon.

 

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Two Weeks and Counting

Dear Family and Friends,

It is two weeks today that we turn our minds and our luggage toward home and, like always, we begin to feel ready. The weather here is warming up, about 89 yesterday and the nights are not cooling off a great deal, which compromises sleeping. So, I think May is the latest you want to be in PV.

This week I was struck with the feeling of loss. When you come back to a place year after year (8 years for us now), you begin to recognize the locals, or if not locals, those that seem to visit here about the same time you do. You don't know them by name (at least, not usually), but you acknowledge one another as you pass them each morning, about the same time, on the Malécon or in the stores or at the cafes. It is usually no more than a tip of the head, or a wave of the hand. These last 6 weeks I was aware that a couple of these folks were missing. Further investigation discovered that in each case they had died. While not knowing them, I sincerely felt a sense of loss, that PV would not, for me, be quite the same.

I didn't even know the name of the one fellow, but he and I walked about the same time and would see each other out at the point at the end of Malécon. I was usually enjoying a cup of store-bought frijoles while this fellow had stopped at the local convenience store and bought a Tecate beer. We laughed at our separate indulgences.

The other fellow we did have a speaking relationship with. His name was Norm. We was rail-thin, darkly tanned and was clearly the living embodiment of the "Vietnam Vet." We learned that he lived out at the Marina, but came into town each day, either in his pickup or on the back of his Harley. He then proceeded to hold down a bar stool for nearly the remainder of the day, sipping on a cold Pacifico. When I inquired about his missing and they told me he had died, the bar had put up a memorial to Norm, with his picture and a small plaque supplied by the Veterans Assocication. Obviously others missed Norm as well.

The past week has been pretty low-keyed. We managed to maintain our regular routine. Trying to savor the last few weeks to Paradise. With the warmer days, the sunsets on the Malécon were becoming quite stunning.

I continued my fascination with silhouettes against the bright background. I managed to capture this bandito as he awaited another photo-op and another 5 or 10 pesos

Actually, the Malécon was quite active with Mexicans this week. The Gringo population continues to dwindle down to a precious few, but the food carts seem to be thriving. I caught this table of sweets last night

Speaking of food, when we have lunch each day at La Fuente, I have always commented on the number of people who, faced with a plethora of Mexican delicacies, end up having a "Club Sandwich." So, this week, in an effort to better understand my fellow travelers (and to try and work my way through the entire menu), I had one as well.

I begrudgingly admit is was very good! Of course, with the fries, it ended up as two meals, but I could see its attraction.

The Malécon also provided me with this Pelican airforce passing over Roberto's just before sundown

All in all, a very nice week. Just two more to go and we will do our best to savor each moment, but it is easy to take this life, and these sunsets, for granted

 

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Meanderings along the Malécon

Dear Friends and Family,

Not much new to report. That is the way we like it. However, we have not been hermits, exactly. So, I thought it might be fun to just throw together a collection of a few impressions that have ended up in my camera the last few nights. They are not particularly special, but as we now move inside of 3 weeks until we return to Oregon, they may just be a bit more treasured as the time slips away. It seems a long time until December when we will visit them again.

Yesterday, of course, was Mothers' Day. It is celebrated here in PV as well. Actually, as you see the displays in the various small grocery stores, the choices appear to reworked Valentine's Day offerings. I did manage to shine for a few minutes by returning from my morning walk with a dozen roses.

I do hope you aren't so blinded by my vision of lovliness to not notice the vase. The woman who owns the place seems to be fascinated by laboratory gadgets. With the long-stem roses, I was forced to reach a high shelf for this huge beaker. It was only after filling it with water that I discovered it was the tomb for former resident of the place

So, Polley got two gifts for the day.

We have been getting down to the Malécon pretty regularly for sunset. We just sit quietly and watch the world pass by. With the exception of Saturday and Sundays, it is very quiet. We are often the only table in the place - tough time to be a waiter in PV right now - and watch the Mexicans drift up and down the oceanside walk way. Occasionally, there is a change in the rhythm. As when these cute little girls came dashing along, posed and then shot off to the next thing

They had there 15 seconds of fame with the crowd and then vanished.

Another moment, as I was sauntering over to capture another dramatic sunset, I caught this little queen lording over her plate for French fries

You could use of up endless computer chips trying to capture all the cute kids in Mexico.

And while we are on the subject of sunsets, there have been some good ones lately. The other night I strolled a bit north from our regular location at Restaurante Roberto's. I had forgotten the variety of sculptures that are up that direction. There is this wonderful Dolphin fountain

It has been a bit tempermental as some days it is closed down and others it is going full tilt. The other night was a bit of good luck

it was not only bubbling, but changing color as well

From there I drifted a bit further to the famous "Arcos" of PV.

There is an amphitheatre there as you can see and there is a show there nearly every night. It is a major gathering spot for crowds as the sun begins to leave us for another day.

Lastly, as I was on my walk this morning, there was another strong impression, nearly opposite of the dramatic sunsets. As I came down the south end of the Malécon, moving quickly past a number of beachside cafes that shades the beach in the early morning hours from the sun. Suddenly, I came around a corner and the sun poured down a side street in the shockingly clear air of morning , I was confronted with the pier.

I pass it nearly everyday, but somehow it was particularly striking this morning. It implored me to capture it -- I did.

It seems had to believe that after 8 years of travel to this town there are still moments to preserve. These were a few in the last few days. I will continue to keep my eyes peeled.

 

 

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One Step Forward, Two Steps Back, Bathroom!

Dear Friends and Family,

It has been far too long, I realize. I can only say that food poisoning will set you back a bit. It is even more embarassing when you poison your self! Yes, in the manner of my good friend, Jeff Gauthier, I selected enticing comestibles from the rear of the refrigerator. Not good! Friday night we got home from some sunset time on the Malécon and she decided she was tired and not hungry. So, with her tucked in, I decided to ignore the delicious, not to mention safe, chicken risotto I had made. No, save that for the two of us. I'll take a more improvisational approach to dining. So, a couple of eggs, some left over Cesar dressing (there when we moved into the place a month ago), a little week old salsa and an old tortilla. What could be better? Wrong. I awoke in the middle of the night very sick and it would be all of Saturday and Sunday in bed, a little norishment on Monday, before I emerged from mausoleum on Tuesday with some renewed strength. I am back, and, perhaps, a bit wiser.

Outside of a certain discomfort of the digestion tract, life continues pleasantly uneventful. The town has become very quiet. Some restaurants are restricting hours, it is a nervous time for workers as they are unsure what layoffs there might be. Hopefully, they have squirreled away some pesos for the slow season. It is actually a little surprising that it is so quiet, as the weather has been lovely. This may be an odd year as we have never been down here this late, but so far the days are mid-80s, with little or no humidity and very comfortable nights. It has seemed ideal to us.

Life in the new house continues to be enjoyable. It is a bit noisey during the day and in the early to mid-evening. But as I have said before, you truly feel you are in a Mexican neighborhood. People regularly greet us as we come down the hill. Of course, despite the new location, we have been trekking down the same path for the last 8 years. We do miss some of the people we got to know further up the hill as we seldom venture up that way any more. Sort of surprising considering Polley's attachment to the stray cats up there for so many years. Apparently, our current single live-in cat is enough. She also seems to be comfortable in the place and has stopped whinning and pining for the fields.

We have made it down, on a nearly nightly basis to the Malécon for a drink and a sunset. Sometimes two drinks, but always just the one sunset. Last night, rather than our usual spot, as it was closed for Cinco de Mayo (a seemingly "non event" in PV), we went further south to see our old friends at Langosta Loca. While the rest of the town has been quiet, it was a madhouse. Drunken Mexicans, screaming, sand-covered children and perhaps the world's record for the longest string of absolutely terrible musicians. It was, however, a dramatic sunset.

Fishermen were finishing up for the day and just bathing in the last rays of light.

I caught this through the palm fronds of a nearby palapa

While moving out to freeze these two pelicans in mid-flight and catching the sun and its reflection.

However, while the Mother Nature was providing a romantic backdrop, the cacophony of sounds in the restaurant soon drove us to the sanctuary of our home. We did get this final glimpse of the night sky as we ambled back up north to our usual haunts. Despite so much time in this place, it still holds a certain enchantment that keeps luring us back.

 

 

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