Saturday, March 29, 2014

Turning to Thoughts of Home

Dear Friends and Family,

I write this more looking forward than looking back. We are ready for Oregon. We have looked at the weather forcasts and know the outlook is bleak, however, despite that, we are ready for home. As I have doubtless mentioned before, about two weeks out, we begin to think of things that must be done upon our return. We, of course, long to see our own cats and I am anxious to return to our kitchen and our bed. I also think some of that has been based on our really not feeling well the last couple of weeks. My cold returned and for the last couple of days, Polley has not been good at all. "We want our Mommies!" So, health issues have taken some of the bloom off the last few days.

We have been trying to get to the beach, but our regular routine has been "irregular." We did have a nice evening with my brother and his wife at a quite incredible hotel/restaurant on the hill above the bay, called Casa Isabel. It offers a spectacular view of Puerto Vallarta

Unfortunately, we did not arrive there until after sunset, so this is not a great shot. We are returning there tonight for sunset and I should be able to provide some better views of the bay. We had actually gone up there to listen to a father and son musical duet with harp and guitar.

We had met them at the beach last fall and they told us they play nightly at Casa Isabel. They were a real treat. While the old man usually plays the harp and the son on guitar and vocals (very nice tenor voice), they can switch as well. We are looking forward to hearing them again, and, perhaps, catching them in a little better light. We are going up with our friends, Art and Marilyn, from Vancouver, Washington. There are a lot of Vancouver, BC people where, but finding some people just 5 miles from us is a rare treat.

Colors continue to dazzle and brighten our somewhat unhealthy lives. Polley encouraged this shot of bouganvilla petals against the gray sidewalk

Leave it to Polley to find the vividness of life all around.

Besides the father and son duo at Casa Isabel, we continued to support the musical community at large. Over a couple of large margaritas, we enjoyed Pedro, Lorenzo and Victor

One of the real joys of this particular trip has been the connections with members of the Mexican community. We have two different groups of musicians, along with the resident marimba player, the little lady that sells me dry cat food, the old man who trims my beard, and the various waiters that we visit with on a near daily basis. They actually worry about us if we don't show up. We really treasure those connections and there seem to have been more of them this time.

And, of course, we have had some good sunsets. Not quite that one of the last blog, but nevertheless, they have been note worthy (which is defined by being willing to get up off my ass and take a picture!).

Again, it seems that the sailboats, this season, have timed their appearance with the setting of the sun

You almost think the city fathers of PV hire a boat every night for a sihouetted photo

I think, however, my favorites are the sihouettes of the pelicans against the setting sun

Those are images I will miss as we watch the sparrows and crows backed up by the gray skies at home. After nearly 12 weeks, it's amazing what you find yourself longing to experience. Home soon.

 

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Death Rumor Overrated

Dear Friends and Family,

Days have gone by and nothing from me. No worries. We are well. Wall, I say that, as the dreaded cold from a couple of weeks ago has mysteriously returned. No energy at all. I have not walked and as I write this I have vowed to stay in all day and try to beat this bug.

I will also admit to a low level of inspiration. I think, as we are within a week of our journey back to Oregon, that my thoughts have turned to home. 11 weeks to sunsets, frijoles, and margaritas have just become the duties of the day. Sad, but true. Having said that, I will say that on Monday evening Polley and I witnessed one of the most amazing sunsets of our time her (perhaps all time). We had decided on a nice romantic dinner by ourselves and go to new place, Layla's, and got to our table on the upstairs terrace and suddenly, looked toward the bay to see a sky on fire

From the balcony, I took a couple of shots and then simply had to abandon Polley and go down to bay

It was spectacular and it continued to intensify

The colors deepened and the contrast of dark, reds and the light was astonishing.

As I write this, I try to imagine some ancient people seeing this display. One might contemplate the end of the world rather than just an end of the day.

As I have said before, sunsets are amazing. You get one like this one night and the next the sky is clear and the sun is just a big yellow ball

This was Tuesday. I will say that this year that have been more sailboats than any previous year. It seems, this season, that you can't take a picture of the setting sun without a sailboat insterting itself in the frame.

Other than that the days have been lovely, the skies clear and bright blue

although some are complaining of the heat and humidity. Our years in Wisconsin and Georgia allow us to dismiss such complaints, but summer is not long in coming. Speaking of the future, we did place a three month down payment on next year. We have our same place for 6 months, December - May and plan to break up our time here, coming home in March for taxes and family (perhaps, in that order!)

So, all goes well. We are off to a new place for dinner tonight with my brother and his wife. It is called Casa Isabel and we are drawn to it by a father and son who entertain there each night, with harp (the father) and guitar (the son). We heard them in the fall on the beach and were so struck with them that we promised ourselves a trip to Casa Isabel, where they play nightly. We finally got ourselves organized enough to do and I will report in a couple of days. Beyond that, it is just enjoy all we have here while we can, eat up the remainder of what in the fridge and begin to pack up. I think it is time!

 

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Fascinating Strolls Through PV

Dear Friends and Family,

For those of you who know me (and that is all of you!), my morning walk is a very important part of my daily routine. Beside the obvious health benefits, there is almost always a practical side to it: most usually a trip to the store for more cat food. However, an added benefit is that when you get out in the morning, as PV is waking up, you find some fascinating and unexpected moments.

Yesterday, as I turned a corner on the Malécon, there was a film camera crew, setting up a drone, loaded with a camera

They were preparing for some aerial shots of the bay to be used later in a film. Of course, in true Mexican style, I never actually witnessed the thing flying. They just seemed to fiddle with it forever.

Another event from this week, that I also never saw actually get going, was the children's Celebration of Spring parade. On a very sunny morning, dozens of children and their parents lined up for this annual event

The kids were dressed as animals and insects in very bright colors

This little girl "cat" was actually on a motorized car that was preparing to lead the parade that would never start

It was lively, however, and I am sure, somewhere down the road the event actually occurred -- just not inmy lifetime.

One of the real pleasures of our months in PV is not having to drive. We walk nearly everywhere and when the journey is too far or the legs just wear out, there are city busses and bright yellow taxis. Speaking of spring and bright yellow, Polley and came back from the beach this week and looked up to see this glorious taxi-yellow tree

What a delight! I am also glad I got a picture because by yesterday the leaves were beginning to drop. It is like spring arrived, paused a moment, and moved on.

Speaking of moving on, I crossed the main plaza in Old Town yesterday, something I have done hundreds of times. Suddenly there was a new addition

This is a scupture by a Northwest artist, Jim DeMent, who also did the "Dancing Couple" and the "Washer Woman." We had seen the mock-up for this last year at an exhibition, but now, suddenly, here was the real thing, in a very central location.

And, finally, as always, there are the sunsets. Always fascinating, never the same, and we seem to never tire of them. I must share one that my brother caught the other night. One of the best sunset photos I have ever seen.

It rather appears like some Heavenly road map for Moses! Very cool. However, last night, the four of us gathered at Roberto's to see what nature was going to offer us.

We awaited the event, with a little music. And nature did not disappoint

This season there always seems to be sailboat in the picture -- and, of course, a girl

And, as the sun left its glow, some very dramatic, dark clouds moved in

I expected rain, they looked so threatening. It never happened. It was a rather muggy, damp night, but the drought continues. It is my understanding that it will more than make up for the absence of water come summer. Best to all and more soon as we are only a week and half from returning to reality.

 

Thursday, March 20, 2014

A Clutter of Colors, Climaxes and Clowns

Dear One and all,

I have talked about routine and its being such a comfort. Of course, one side of routine can be a sense of being stuck in a rut, but the other side is that sense of stability. Yesterday, we risked breaking our routine and just before actually doing it, there was a sense of panic and a sense of loss. I nearly cancelled out trip to Boca for the sake of routine. However, at about 11 yesterday morning, Polley, my brother and his wife and I hopped a 8 peso city bus for the 30 minute ride south along he coast to the little bay of Boca de Tomatlan. It is a lovely setting

As you can see, it was a beautiful day as we made our way from the bus stop (Boca is the end of the city line) at the highway down a long series of irregular steps to the beach. The plan was to have lunch at one of Boca's 5 restaurants. Actually, "restaurant" may be too grand a word. Bayside shacks would be more accurate. I will refrain from quoting Polley's detailed and disgusting description of the bathroom at Los Mangos. Let's just say it was "rustic." After making our way across the sandy causeway

and climbing up a series of "sand bag" steps, we settled into a little thatched deck for beers. Polley actually ordered white wine. There is no wine in Boca, of any color! That will give you a sense of how primitive life in Boca can be. After the beer, we wandered on to the second shack (Los Mangos, #2 rated on TripAdvisor!) for some lunch: nachos, quesadillas and french fries! What I loved most at Los Mangos was that in this quite basic world of thatched palapas, plastic chairs and one-hole toilets, they had the world's largest "Boom Box."

This is, apparently, the juke box of the 21st century. Actually it looks like it could play music, serve as an ATM and dispense TriMet tickets. And, boy, is it loud. Of course, Mexican music only comes in "loud" and "mas loud"!

It was a nice day, however. It was a quiet change from the bustle of PV. It also gave Dave and Katie a little sense of the south coast. It is a lovely drive

So, after lunch and a fruitless search for the fruit of the vine, it was back to civilization. Couples went there separate ways, with Polley and I catching the sunset from Roberto's, as it silhouetted the now famous "Dancing Couple."

While recording the sun abandoning us for yet another day, I did manage to sneak up on the saddest clown I have every seen.

He wanders the Malécon in his clown suit, complete with blue hair

half-heartedly trying to dispense balloon animals to little children, for a peso or two. His lack of effort nearly defies description. It almost appears that he has been etrnally doomed to an existence as a wandering clown. Very sad.

However, the sunset was lovely. Later, we had a nightcap at El Patio. It was such a perfect evening, and I was able to capture of some the color coming through the fronds of the palms in the garden.

Such a lovely setting. Tonight, we are taking some new friends, Art and Marilyn, from Vancouver, WA to El Patio. More on that in a future blog. I also will catch you up on such events as "Oil Expropriation Day," and other sunsets, etc. But for now, I will finish off with our furry friend down the hill bidding you all adieu

 

Monday, March 17, 2014

Spring Has Sprung

Dear Friends and Family,

Although I am writing this blog on one of the breeziest mornings since arriving, the weather has definitely changed. The last couple of days have been very warm and the forecast is for increasing temperatures in the days to come. We are contemplating staying in April and May next year. We will see what the next couple of weeks give us before any final decisions.

One of the signs of spring is a children's "Primavera" parade. I caught this last year, with all the kids dressed as various insects of spring: bees, butterflies, etc. This year it seems to be the bicycles that get the decorating

It was very colorful, as you can tell

Apparently, as much as my Español would allow, various schools (or classes) gather at the Arches amphitheatre and recite their odes to spring

As you can see, it was a beautiful Saturday morning for such an event. Not too difficult to be inspired for about the months to come. However, down here, spring will take the Mexicans closer to the rainy season, while Oregonians can look forward to weather like this past weekend in PV.

Speaking of Oregonians, my brother and his wife, Dave and Katie, continue to adapt to the Mexican lifestyle.

They may actually be faster learners than Polley and me. It took them only a bit over a week to grow comfortable with doing nothing!.

The little "Snoot" cat that actually belongs to another tenant in the apartment continues to spend the majority of his time at our place, now sleeping with un nearly throughout the night. I managed catch him in this "relaxed" position the other morning.

Not, perhaps, her best angle, but she is certainly relaxed.

This has been another Mexican three-day weekend as they celebrate the birthday of Benito Juarez. He is a national hero noted for making democratic reforms that created the democratic federal republic of Mexico. The town is packed this weekend

The Malécon is lined with tourists, vendors, street performers and an incredible number of bad musicians. We have taken ourselves down to the Malécon several nights to watch the activities. It also has a good location for several dramatic sunsets

I think I have mentioned before, that the presence of some clouds nearly always makes for more spectacular results.

The absence of the clouds, regardless of their type, just gives you a big, round, boring yellow ball. Fortunately, last night brought in some more clouds and people lined the sea wall to capture the show

So, life goes on. We are starting our next to last full week. I am sure time will seem to speed up, but our thoughts are beginning to turn toward home, toward friends and family, towards the realities of yard work, and towards taxes. It is the slap in the face for two people who have been daydreaming too long. More soon!

 

Friday, March 14, 2014

Friends, Family and Some Time Out

Dear One and All,

I have, again, let three days slip by with no word. Part of that was carelessness and part of it was by design. Little outside of our normal routine has occurred so there was little of import to report. We did have a very nice dinner on Tuesday evening with our friends Pat and George (Salem), John and Molly (Beaverton), my brother, Dave sister-in-law, Katie and Polley and myself. We went to a new place at the north end of the Malécon, Layla's. It was quite good, but, of course, it was about the people and the food became secondary to the company. One thing that was fun about the evening is that Molly, who was a nun in an earlier life, was discovered to be Katie's high school math teacher at Sacred Heart Academy in the late 60s. So much was enjoyed in reliving that relationship. I guess this is where I should say, "Small World."

After the lively evening with friends, Polley and I found that we were running out of gas. We did have a very nice lunch with Dave and Katie the next day, at La Fuente

As you can tell, I owed some money to this group of musicians. I try to book them once a week. We have become good friends and they work very hard, and are often treated rudely by American and Canadian customers. We try to do our bit, plus they are quite good. Here we have, left to right, Pedro, Victor, and Lorenzo.

With that social engagement, it was truly time to check out. One thing that traveling and being essentially on your own in a foreign world give you is a greater sense of self. How you respond to the constant improvisation of travel is revealing. While Polley and I consider ourselves social beings, we find that we have limits. It has nothing to do with the people, but we have found it is telling about ourselves. So, after enjoying our time with friends and family, the following day we withdrew. We stayed in during the morning hours (Did I earlier recommend The Husband's Secret by Liane Moriarty?), sneaked down for a margarita at noon, and after siesta, just went down the bridge to the little cafe in the park (no sunset! Unheard of!) and enjoyed a glass of wine. It was both lunch and dinner in. It was lovely. It gave renewed energy to face the next day.

Yesterday was beautiful and warm. We got to the beach, got a little sun and shared some time with Dave and Katie who wandered down about 11:15. We got in our margarita, although that is not quite. Polley had to take a pill yesterday that would not allow her any alcohol for 24 hours. So it was Virgin Marys and Limonada for the day (for her!).

Then, having missed sunset the night before, we headed down to Langosta. Dave and Katie arrived and as we were sitting on the beach, a little Mexican man came by and plopped down on the sand and proceeded to craft to take some palm fronds and weave them into some rather magical

In just a matter of minutes, he prosented Katie with a little gift

Of course, when Katie gave him 10 pesos for the "gift," he demanded 20! Very clever, however.

From there is was sit back and enjoy the show on the horizon.

It was pretty spectacular. As I have said before, you just never know. This one did not disappoint.

As the sky darkened, we left the beach and headed for dinner at a relatively new restaurant, The Old Town Bistro. We walked by another place, The Blue Shrimp, and I managed to capture their sculpture agains the fading sky

Having taken a day of rest, it was a lovely evening. We need those days out of the routine just a bit more often. They make all the difference!