WE have been here a week! Actually it will be a full week at about 9:45 this evening, when we pulled into Ingrid’s from Athens. And it has been a good week. I was just commenting to Polley this morning that life is simpler here and that is what I think I most enjoy. We have seen most of the sights of the Peleponnese twice and, in most cases, three times. There is not the pressure to DO things. We just allow ourselves to enjoy the rhythms of this primarily rural life.
With the appearance of the sun and clear skies yesterday, the whole nature of our visit seemed to change. My morning walk to Tolo was a delight as the sun shown on the hills, on the bay, and on the beautiful, green, crystal-clear water.
Here as I reach the rise and head down into Tolo, you can look across the bay.
Once I have walked through the town, I come to the end of the town at the harbor which opens out on the sea
As I return, you can look at the harbor with the small fishing boats that keep the restaurants supplied with fish
And this is looking back the other way at the hill where my journey began
Following my hour long jaunt to the east, we read a bit and then decided to return to the bustling town of Nafplio, this time intending to enjoy it in the bright sunshine. For those of you considering a visit to Peleponnese, I strongly suggest using Nafplio or a place nearby as a base. You can easily motor to Corinth, Agros, Mikines, Sparta and other famous destinations and return home that evening for a meal in the town of Nafplio or at one of the tavernas in the outlying villages.
WE arrived in Nafplio about 10:30 and just leisurely strolled up and down the streets looking into the shops. If you are interested in jewelry or watches, the options are nearly endless. We had a nice talk with a lady who strings beads for the famous Greek worry beads and for other good luck charms. Since our first stay in Nafplio in 1994, it has become increasingly up-market. High fashion stores are visible and the bar and restaurant trade has seemingly doubled, at least. Nafplio is build around a central square.
We found a nice place to sit and watch Greek life unfold (or perhaps explode) on a busy Saturday morning.
While later in the summer there will be many tourists here, now the tourist population is rather low (you can hear complaints from waiters and innkeepers).
Almost all we heard and saw yesterday was Greek language and Greek families. There were an amazing amount of children. Every adult seemed to pushing a pram or dragging a child or two along. Kids were skateboarding and playing soccer in the square. Greek life appeared to be good.
Following a couple of hours in town, stopping to have a half liter of wine which was not only just 4 euros, but also was served with a plate of olives, tomatoes and feta cheese. We were in danger of spoiling our lunch and with the food in our refrigerator that was not a good idea.
WE got back to Ingrid’s about 1 and had some of that lunch that needed to be eaten. We read a bit more and then caught a serious siesta. We slept for 4 hours! It was 6:30 when we finally came awake. We got dressed and wandered down to Yorgos at the bar and for the next hour and a half had a lovely time talking with Ingrid, Yorgos, and their daughter, Sophia, and her friend, Maria. Great fun. Here you see the two girls
And, of course, Polley with Ingrid .
With light beginning to fade, Polley and I, deciding to eat dinner in (trying to get rid of still more food, went into Tolo for a drink. We found a local bar, and I do mean local, as everyone was speaking Greek except us. We each had an ouzo and just watched Saturday night life in Tolo. Near the end of our stay there, however, a young couple came in and were clearly speaking English. Turns out they were from Seattle. Had a nice conversation with them as we finished our drinks. They were leaving for Athens this morning, so it was a brief visit, but they were very enjoyable. We headed home for the last (not quite) of the delicious Greek potato salad that Polley made. A bit more reading and then it was lights out. I know it may have seemed like we did nothing significant, but it was a very enjoyable day. A little sunshine seems to change everything. More tomorrow.
Ed and Polley
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