Thursday, September 13, 2012

A Rainy Day in Lyon

Dear Friends and Family, Rain! Yes, for the first time on our whole trip is rained. It does make touring a bit more difficult, but you just push on, especially if you are from Oregon. I do apologize for not getting a blog in yesterday. When you are in a place this size and with a limited amount of time, you need to get moving. It is very different than the leisurely pace of Greece. Despite the weather, we got out about 10 am yesterday and headed to what was one of the more highly rated sights of Lyon: The Museum of Miniatures and Décor of the Cinema. It was fascinating. The first part was some life-size rooms that were created of period films. The most featured was a film called The Perfumery, which apparently starred Dustin Hoffman. The details were amazing. Beyond that were miniature stage sets that were created to appear to be life size. Here was a scene of the destruction of a German city.
The scale was miniature, but when filmed, it all appeared realistic. Here is another: the façade of a tenement building
All in miniature, but, again, life size when filmed In addition to the cinema miniatures, they featured artists who created miniature settings, simply as works of art. This is a sort of bric-a-braque store (Brocante in French)
Here is a miniature replica of the famous Maxim’s
Each individual glass, every flower, all the detail was hand-blown. Amazing. There also just miniatures of things. Furniture, famous paintings in miniature, every day items, etc. Here are miniature items, including dueling pistols, a clock, jewelry, musical instruments, etc.
We were even able to catch one of the major miniature artists, Don Oldham, at work in his studio
It was fascinating and certainly deserving of it’s popular reputation. After the tour of the museum, we wandered around Old Lyon, with its picturesque, narrow, cobble-stoned streets. Apart from the weather, it was a lovely day. We, of course, stopped for some wine and headed home for lunch and a nap. It was a greater deal later than usual. That evening we wanted to eat at one of the famous Lyon “Bouchons.” These are bistros that are specifically certified to serve typical dishes of the region. We ate at an out of way place, that was on a little side street. It was called “Fourchettes et Camisole (Forks and Camisole).” We could make little sense of the name and no one in the place had English. We actually discovered the place, while we were looking for another place that had been recommended. It appeared closes. So we tried Fourchettes et Camisole. It was terrific.
Maybe my favorite thing about the place, initially, were the water glasses.
Aren't they a kick! They are a bit disconcerting when you first pour water into them. You swear they will fall over. They don't! We shared a prix fix offering. We had the regional salade Lyonnaise, a salad of greens, bacon, tomato and croutons. Then we had as our main course, a Quenelle of Brichot. We had no idea what it would be. It turns out to be a kind of fluffy fish dumpling, traditionally made with Pike. It sits in a sauce, often made from crawfish. I looked it up when we got home and got a better sense of how it is made. Does not look too difficult, but apparently with various times to let things set, you need to make it over two days! Finally, we had the dessert option of something called a “Moelleux au Chocolat.”
It was a warm, soft cake covered in a very rich, dark chocolate, with both whipped cream and cream fraiche to dip in or pour over. A lovely meal from start to finish. It was nearly 11 by the time we arrived back in the apartment. We now realize that Lyon is a big city with a great deal to offer, next time, perhaps, two weeks might start to be enough. Our last day tomorrow and, I promise, pictures of our mouse hole.

No comments: