First Full Weekend

Friends and Readers,

I did take yesterday off. Sunday and my day of rest and all that. Actually, given our current lifestyle, I am a little embarrassed to admit to needing a day off, but Sunday was very busy. It was a nice weekend. We did very little on Saturday. Strolled down to Época and wandered a bit about town. Our real activity began in the evening as we went to Nacho Daddy's to enjoy Bobby and his group. However, when we got there we discovered that the "group" was now just Bobby, playing guitar this time, and a drummer. Apparently other members of the "group" just pissed people off and were no longer there.

Tried to get some pictures of the hour or so we spent there, but the lighting is so poor and the musicians are in constant motion that nothing was really worth passing on.

I say we only stayed an hour because we had a dinner date with our good friends, Pat and George, and their good friends (becoming ours as well), Jim and Molly. They are a couple we met last year and who live in Beaverton. The six of us had dinner in Portland this last fall and it was nice to get together again. We met at a place called Archie's Wok. Archie, the story goes, was the private chef of John Huston and discovered PV when he was here cooking for Huston while they shot Night of the Iguana. What real connection Archie had with the restaurant, I don't know, but it did take his name. I don't know whether Huston lost a chef or just that PV gained a restaurant.

Following dinner, we all strolled the lively Malécon on a Saturday night. Polley and I broke off from the group at the end of the promenade and stopped at El Patio for a nightcap. The place was packed again and we were told that the previous night, music did finally get going and that the place didn't close up until 3 am.

The weather continues lovely in PV. Mornings are still cool and some have the audacity to complain. We, however, find it heavenly! We were awakened abruptly by the church bells at 6 am. How quickly we forget. 21 bells on the hour and then 20 bells at approximately 15, 30 and 45 after . . . and then we start again. One of the delights this year as we come out of our apartment is a new batch of very cute kittens. They are very shy, but Polley is enticing them with food. First she lured on out,

then a second

and then a couple of others.

I think there about 6 in all. Very cute!

From our seducing the cats, we went down for a cheap beer at a little place that sits right on the beach. Very casual, but very quiet, except for the vendor that bothers you every 15 seconds! Anyway, it was a lovely day. This photo is looking back at the condominiums that our friends, Neal and July Higgins stay in and where Época is located.

Polley sitting enjoying the sunshine

and we both sat and watched a fellow shuck oysters and clams with incredible dexterity.

We trekked backup the hill (my third of the day with two more to come) to our place for lunch and a siesta before coming back down the hill. As Bobby's unofficial "groupies," we went down to Época Sunday afternoon as Bobby had told us of a guitar player with whom he has teamed up. They had Happy Hour prices and some great music for a very enthusiastic crowd (we are no Bobby's only groupies.

One thing that was nice is that I was finally able to get a picture of Bobby (on the left with the flute) in the daytime with plenty of light.

Very nice hour and a half. We are constantly amazed at Bobby's versatility. Saturday night is was him on guitar with a drummer and a whole set of songs. Yesterday, it was a different style and he was on flute. Sunday evening we had our regular table at Vitea and Bobby was there on solo flute.

So that was the weekend. Today we ventured out to Walmart again as we prepare for our journey to Guadalajara. This is a sort of sentimental journey although we are finding much of the sentiment fading with each passing day. We had oped to see Max, Rebecca and Gary from our time there two years ago. A few days ago, we learned that Rebecca would be in New York and today we heard that Max will be out of town. Gary I trust will be available. As you might remember, Guadalajara is quite a bit colder than here, so part of the Walmart excursion was to get extra cold-weather gear. We will be there until Saturday. I hope to report on our time there, however, you never know just how busy we might be!

One and all,

Life continues to be too good here in old Mexico. While the weather has cooled a bit in the mornings, the days continue to be quite sunny, varying from bright blue, cloudless skies, to some high thin clouds that relieve all from the heat a bit. Wind does pick up at time, thus the cool mornings.

Visited our favorite bakery yesterday. They make some of the best bread I have ever had. They have a whole schedule of varieties and days they are available. We had the Fugasse yesterday. It is a spongy, chewy bread that has bits of zuccini, roasted tomatoes, onions and a little cheddar cheese. Delicious. It is so nice to see this bakery succeed although the owner says it is still a struggle as most of her customers are snowbirds, here in season, but gone the rest of the year. She is a very nice lady whose husband absconded with everything last year. She is making a comeback and seems to be supplying quite a number of restaurants as well as very satisfied American and Canadian tourists.

We had another easy day. WE saw our friends at La Fuente del Puente. There 2 x 1 beers keep drawing us in and we are drinking there for about half what it costs us with wine last year. Also, they are just nice people. We met Francisco, their new host. He speaks nearly perfect English, which is not surprising since he was born and raised in Fresno, CA. He moved back down because of his wife's desire to be close to her family. He complained that he is very bored in this job. He loved his old job, just loved it! I asked him what he had done and he calmly us that he was an "undercover narcotics agent"! One can see where being a host of a Mexican restaurant might not live up the that! Anyway, a nice man, who is not happy in his work.

We headed back home for a bit of lunch and our siesta. Did fail to mention the other day that we did, after buying a "Happy Chicken (Pollo Feliz), manage to acquire our first refrigerator magnet.

Now, it truly feels like home.

We wandered down to Época to see Hannah and have a drink. Had a nice conversation with the owner and he invited us to the Oregon National Championship game party on Monday. I usually enjoy watching the game in the privacy of my own home, but I think we will go. One of the advantages will be that I can watch in English rather than Spanish, as I am watching the Seahawks game at this very moment.

From there, we drifted up the Malécon and went to a little French bistro, La Cigale (the cicada) for a French style dinner.

We ordered appropriately in French (the owner is from Marsielles), but it gets a bit confusing. He is French, his staff is Mexican and you find yourself going back and forth from oui to si to gracias to merci. The staff seems very tolerant of the confusions and let them pass by. We had some delicious escargot.

And then Polley and I shared a Noiçoise Salad that was very disappoiinting.

It was odd as we both thought we had the Noiçoise last year and enjoyed it. This time it was not good. First, if there is lettuce in a Noiçoise, you know they have got it wrong. Things just did not seem fresh. Also, even the wine was mediocre, he said, giving them the benefit of the doubt. So we ate and then quickly moved on to El Patio de mi Casa. It was supposed to be jazz night, so we got a table and waited. We had arrived about 9:30 for the 10 p.m. music. We saw musicians wander in, talk, look for cables, etc. but at 10:40 there was still no music and there did not appear to be any on the horizon. So, it was up the hill for a nightcap, a good book and another nights rest in Paradise.

Friends and readers,

What do we do with our days? As we ended Epiphany yesterday (supposedly an important holiday in Mexico except you see no sign that it is a holiday - it may be a date on the religious calendar that signals the end of all the tacky holiday decorations), I asked my self, "Where on earth does a day go?" Yesterday, as I looked back, helped me to understand how little we do and how quickly the time seems to pass.

We continue to awake to beautiful blue skies although yesterday was a bit strange as a haze came in from the sea late in the morning and seemed to increase through the afternoon. It wasn't thick, but it did managed to take some of the intensity out of the light. After a morning a coffee, my ritual hour's walk(Polley's Pilates), we read and generally puttered around the apartment. About 11, we strolled down the Malécon. I wanted Polley to catch the sand sculptures which generally had a holiday theme. I was convinced that a team of bulldozers would be pulling up this morning and flatten them all. Epiphany being over all. This year was especially good. We had a theme from the Sistine Chapel


A series of Christmas Trees (Holiday vegetation?)


Santa and 6 of his 8 reindeer. Apparently in Mexican lore, Santa downsizes


The requisite Our Lady of Guadalupe


and, of course, the Three Wise Men


As you can see, they are quite amazing and for the price of a couple of pesos you can snap to you heart's delight.

We then stopped for our late morning beer. We stopped at a new spot, called Piunto. I apologize for not snapping a photo as it appears to be a cross between late 19th century Victorian and early bordello. Pictures to come, I promise, as words cannot describe.

We decided on lunch out on this Thursday and to make a dinner out of left overs. So we returned to our local haunt, La Fuente del Puente (The Fountain at the Bridge). WE regularly visit the place and last year they had a little birthday celebration for Polley. It is a place that seems to exist primarily to feed those tourists waiting for the busses to take them back to the cruise ships. Late in last year's experiences,we decided to have a meal there. It was very good. So yesterday we had a lunch of guacamole, salsa and some fish tacos.

Like most times Polley and I order, it was too much food, but very good. With that and a margarita, it was definitely siesta time (the most important part of the day). After the nap, came some serious reading time and the opportunity to do another blog (just can't seem to fit them in in our busy mornings). About 7 we wandered south down the beach to Época for a drink and then continued south the La Palapa to hear the music. OUr Scottish friend Bobby and a guitar player-singer perform at this idylic restaurant-bar. It is truly one of the nicest places on the beach. Interestingly, owners and waiters we have talked to since our return have been complaining about how slow business has been. We walked in the bar at La Palapa, a place normally so busy we need to sit at a table on the beach, and it was completely empty. Eventually, there were as many as 8 or 10 in the bar over the 90 minutes we listened to this wonderful combination of guitar and flute. It seems the recession and, I am sure, the news of all the drug-related killings in Mexico, has hurt everyone. It does promises to pick up in February.

After the music, we strolled home, stopping at El Patio for a glass of wine. We had a late night snack and then to bed. That, more or less, is where the day goes.

Another Anniversary

One and all,

30 years and counting. Yesterday, Polley and I celebrated 30 years of marriage (privately we acknowledge the other 7 living in sin). Seems like only yesterday that so many of you were part of our 25th bash at Everyday Wine. Actually, it doesn't seem that long ago that Polley and I were in England, along with our good friends, the Bradens, to tie the knot is a civil ceremony (the reception was less civil) in Grantham, England. Grantham is known as the home of Margaret Thatcher and was once vowed the most boring town in England. On 5 Jaunary, 1981, I can assure you it was not nearly so monotonous. This year, in old Mexico, it was a quiet day. In 1981, the day was bright and sunny in Grantam, but it must have been 35 degrees with a wind-chill factor of 28. That accounts for Polley squinting her eyes in all the outdoor photos. The weather here in Puerto Vallarta, not surprisingly, was perfect. It has been relatively calm in terms of wind with the temperatures holding steady around 80.

The day did not begin with much of sense of celebration. We did the normal routines of each morning here. For those of you who know us well, you will be surprised that we are getting up at 7:30 or 8 in the morning. A cup of coffee and a quick check of overnight e-mails, usually from soap companies, food services, and some daily word from an anonymous Bible ministry is the first thing. Not much happening apart from an intimate relationship with the delete key. I have recovered from the flying and have gotten back into walking. My brother and his wife arrive on 18 January and for the last two days I have been trying to find the condominium complex they have reserved. As my brother would say, I seemed to have the "son of a bitch surrounded," but could not make an exact location. Yesterday, I found it! Actually, I located the base of it. After climbing about 100 steps up the side of a hill, I found the front entrance. Needless to say, I don't think Polley and I will be coming to their place for drinks. The ad my brother found for the place said it was 100 yards from the beach. That may be true. However, to make it accurate, I believe you would need a good long running jump from the balcony, and if you were able to clear the satellite dish on the building in front of his, you just might hit the sand!

Anyway, with that mission accomplished, Polley and I decided to make our first trip down to the beach (more than a 100 yards). WE slowly strolled along, enjoying the variety of tourists. As I am sure I have mentioned in years past, PV attracts a conglomeration of types. At some point in our walk to the beach, we paused for a beer and an opportunity to allow the masses to pass by us.


WE did eventually arrive at our favorite beach, about noon. It was surprisingly quiet. People we have talked to have mentioned that the season thus far has been slow. Certainly, the beach seemed to confirm those rumors. We have our customary Margarita and quietly read out books. I highly recommend "Major Pettigrew's Last Stand by Helen Sionson. Polley enjoyed it and as I close in on finishing it, it is high on my list as well. After 90 minutes or so, our perfect Anniversary Day became slightly less than perfect as the wind picked up. So, we picked up as well and headed back toward home with another stop for a beer, of course. A bit of lunch of salsa and shrimp ceviche and we found the bed calling us to siesta.

WE awoke refreshed and the winds had died down. We read and relaxed until about 7:45, when we headed down to our favorite spot, Vitea, for an anniversary dinner. WE started with a little sparkling wine and then had some old favorites. Polley had a delicious Pumpkin Soup while I had an octopus, chorizo, potato dish. We shared a Bistro Salad and then, the nice people offered us an anniversary champagne on the house.

I am not sure if it was that it was our anniversary or that while sitting there, we reserved a table for every Sunday night while we are in in PV. Either was, it was a perfect (night)cap to the evening. We staggered up the hill and dropped into bed, feeling very satisfied with the day, and, now that I reflect on it, the last 30 years as well.

Friends and all,

The adventure continues. After an exciting visit to the PV Walmart, what could possibly top that. Actually, I always dread the trip to acquire start up provisions, but then end up enjoying the trip. We always take a local bus out to the store, located about 15 minutes to the north, just across from where the cruise ships come in. I am always amazed out how many people on the cruise ship, immediately disembark and cross the busy highway for the security of an American icon! Anyway, for 13 pesos for the two of us, you get the ride of a life time. I have always wondered why Disney never put in the Mexican Bus Ride amusement. Most likely too dangerous! However, an advantage would be you could stuff 80 riders in a vehicle that holds 20.

So, being retired, like a bunch of the other lost souls with little else to amuse them, we wondered up one aisle and down the next. Actually, we have cut back on Walmart treats, mostly just paper products and large jars of condiments. In our declining years, we have come to not carry it all back on the bus, but build a 60 peso cab ride back into town. Then we sit down for a drink before making the long walk (crawl?) up the hill.

Did have a bit of lunch. Polley and I have noticed that since arriving, we have not been nearly as hungry as at home. May be the sea breeze and sun. Perhaps a new diet has been discovered. Of course, this is all followed by siesta, the most important time of the day.

About sunset, which happens about 6:30 p.m. this time of the year, we wander down near the sea for a drink and a bit of people watching. Last night we chose a small coffee, gelato beer spot and just sat and sipped on beer and watched the people go by.

The last couple of years the rolling Mexican food carts have moved down this direction and the crowds come to savor the local offerings.

While the gringos tend to stay a bit further south on the Malecon, the Mexicans gather near the food carts. It really is a delight to see the families stroll up and down while the kids and dogs race about madly, until a child falls and screams or a two dogs have a disagreement and a joyful romp turns into a snarling fight.

Then Polley and I, after our brief visit to El Patio de mi Casa last night, returned to try the food. I am not sure if I mentioned that when we walked in last night for the first time after the change of ownership, a waitress from two years ago, Evonne, was back at work. She not only remembered us, but immediately brought two glasses of red wine, our usual order. She is a delightful girl from Chile, who despite having nearly no English manages to understand us. Given the fact that we seldom understand ourselves, that is quite an accomplishment. Anyway, we ordered a starter, a cheese, Panela, with herbs, said to be "drowned in olive oil." Served hot with toasted bread, it was delicious. You can be looking forward to sampling it at our next gathering. Another new appetizer added to the Bowen's book of recipes! Following that large lump of cheese, were silly enough to order a pizza. It was delicious! It was salmon, goat cheese, capers, and, surprise, apples. It truly was amazing. The apples provided just a hint of sweetness that worked so nicely with the other ingredients.

As you can see, despite the blob of cheese sitting in our stomachs, we managed to eat half and took the remainder home for a lunch coming too our apartment soon.

The weather continues to be beautiful. NIce clear sky and bright shining stars last night as we sat at El Patio. Following the meal it was another walk up the hill. Our new apartment is a good 20 steps short of the record number of 84 our first two years. Our landlord does have some sympathy for the aging! More later.

Settling In

One and all,

Why do I feel I am giving the blogs the same titles as last year? Anyway, that is what we are doing. Polley took control of the apartment and did some serious rearranging. We do dine with a lovely view of the hills, the vegetation and , from Polley chair, a bit of the bay.

Yesterday was a day to reconnect with some of our favorite people. We saw Jose, and the rest of the staff, Aurora, Francisco, Alejandro, and Rudolfo at Fuente del Puente. They have gone to the 2 x 1 Margaritas at noon, so we may be in for a bit to trouble with that temptation so near by.

Later, in the early evening, we went to Época to see one of our favorite barmaids, Hannah Blossom (can you believe that name?). It was relatively quiet which was great. It gave us time to talk with her. She is so delightful and everyone is pleased to see her. She is from British Columbia, but lives and works here most of the year. Also saw Kurt, the owner, who I believe we have mentioned is from Portland and helps run the Blues Festival and the Portland Bite. Both seemed pleased that we were back.

We then, hesitatingly, wandered over the Candela. We are sad as it is no longer Candela. It is now "El Patio en mi Casa." Francisco apparently tired of running back and forth between his place in Guadalajara and PV. Also, the PV location just never took off the way the one in Guadalajara has. So he sold it to a friend. We met her last night. Her name is Heidi and she is a lovely Mexican woman who is an architect, but loved to cook. Francisco apparently had a chance to sell to others, but did not like them and thought they would change the place too much. So he made a deal with Heidi and she is in. She has not changed it a great deal, but has polished it up a bit. There are nice table cloths and some additional lighting. She apparently shows movies on certain nights. We are going to try it for dinner tonight and see what changes and additions she has made.

Following a glass of wine, we wandered up the hill to home. I did tell Polley that as I stared through the open doors of the simple Mexican homes, I was struck with the very basic furnishings in these brightly painted concrete hovels and I could not help think to myself, "Wow, do they get incredible TV reception! It's true.

Well, it was a day not really filed with incident, but with touching base with some the people we most enjoy in PV. Tuesday will be a time to get serious, as we head to Walmart! Once you have stocked up with Sam's goodies, you know you here for the duration. More later, Ed

Arrival 2011

Friends and Readers,

After a flying day worthy of landing in Frankfurt and beyond, we finally arrived in Puerto Vallarta last evening. It was, for a reason we are still trying to fathom, a 15 hour day just to arrive on the Mexican runway.

We began by rising at 2 am to do final packing and to clean our way out the front door. The taxi, driven by a fascinating old hippie who was singing along with Brazilian love songs (many years in Rio!), arrived at 4 and we were at the airport for a 6:15 flight. Of course, there was no one in the Alaska Airlines queue and by 4:25 we were through security and ordering burned Starbucks coffee (the only choice at 4:30 am - be warned!) From there, all seemed to go according to plan and we boarded the plane about 5:45. Then we were told that because of air traffic in San Francisco, we would delay our take-off for thirty minutes. About 6:45 we did, in fact, take off and actually landed only about 10 minutes late in SFO - 8:10. We were then informed almost immediately, that our 10:40 flight was delayed until 11:20, which then actually became 11:45. There is a 2 hours time difference, so to make a long story short, we arrived in PV at exactly 5 p.m., being only about 45 minutes late.

The fun began in passport control. It was jammed! And to serve this horde, initially, there were 2 people to review and enter the passports! A third was eventually added, but it took a full hour to clear the passport section. Of course, our bags were waiting for us (where could they go!), but they Mexico has added a new security mystery. After we collected out bags, you had to send them through an x-ray machine -- on the way out! Bizarre!

Anyway, we got a cab, as our landlord who was going to pick us up, cancelled at the last minute, but offered to cover the cab fare. The only problem was that our location doesn't really have an address and cabs struggle to find it. After a half hour or so, we did arrive and Fred (the landlord) was there to meet us and take us to yet a new and different apartment. It was 7 p.m., 15 hours after our alarm clock had gone off in Oregon that morning. I think our reputation for adapting easily, is a curse. Fred knows he can throw us anywhere and we will make it work. Actually, this morning, Polley is in the process of doing exactly that - trying to make it work.

I have included a couple of pictures of the new place, as it appears at that moment.





I may send you updates as my little Martha Steward works her magic.

We had thought we would go to Vitea for a nice dinner upon arrival, but we had just enough strength to have two beers and some chips before falling into bed. But the weather felt great and Sunday evenings are always a treat as one sits and watches all the families stroll along the Malécon. But bed did finally call and we answered the bell and turned in for a good long rest. Hopefully the roosters and donkeys will hold it down to s dull roar and we will recover enough to begin to enjoy our time here. More later.