A short report this morning as Easter Monday was a very wet and drizzly day. I went walking in the morning and was lucky enough to stay dry. I did the whole perimeter of the old town (cittá vecchia). It took me about 40 minutes, so my guess is that it is about 2 ½ miles around from our place and back again, passing each of the 3 remaining gates to the city. Shortly after my return, it began to rain.
What with the holiday, we felt fortunate that the supermercato was open after being closed on Easter. Our supplies were running low. So we waited for a slight lull in the downpour and made our way across the park and into the downtown and to GS Market. We got the makings for a pasta dish (the local favorite here is orecchiette) that will use some of our ricotta forte. The web came through again. I discovered a web site that is specific to the Pulgia region where we are. It is a very simple recipe, calling for the pasta, an onion, tomato sauce, a little basil (we now own our own basil plant!) and the ricotta forte. We just picked up some canned tomato sauce (at this point our kitchen is too limited to even contemplate making our own sauce). Of course, when we got home, we discovered that we did not even own a can opener. Meal delayed for tomorrow!
That has been a frustration of the apartment. The owner has not given much thought to people actually living and cooking here. All of the appliances (toaster, iron, hairdryer) are like brand new. A couple still in the box, appearing to be nearly unopened. Why? Because the plug (la spina) on the appliance does not fit the socket (la presa) in the wall! There is not kitchen knife (but maybe a dozen small steak knives!), hardly a spoon and nary a spatula. The one that really surprises me, is that there is no colander. Italy, pasta – no colander! Anyway, Polley and I are planning a trip to the flea market today and get a few inexpensive versions of these necessities. I will also report later on my adventure entering the applicance outlet store for un adattatore – an adaptor! Stay tuned!
We did make our way to the main square, despite the weather and bought an interesting bread: pane vedura (vegetable bread). It looked a little like zucchini bread, but I think exactly what is contained in it is left to speculation depending on the season and what is rotting in the markets. Thus, vegetable bread. Then we sat undercover and had our glass of wine at Il Portico with our favorite cameriera, Paola. She is so nice and seems genuinely pleased to see us each day. The weather, however, was not nice and we quickly headed for home and a lunch of the delicious dried beef, bresaola wrapped around arugula and a bit of Parmesan cheese. Delicious!
Following siesta, the rains persisted, so we stayed in until about 8:30. Finally, when the downpour has subsided a bit, we ventured out. It was eerily quiet. After the streets being jammed on Easter night, there was now nearly no one around. Out favorite wine bars were closed up tight, so we decided to head for the square. Much to our surprise, a little Irish pub, called the Joyce was open. This was a place we had seen nearly everyday, but was always closed. It turns out that it is only open in the evening and we had never gotten past one of the wine bars to see that it was “aperto” (open). Tonight it was a port in a storm.
We went in and the people were most welcoming. It was decorated in such a way that you just as easily could have been in Galway on a cold and stormy night. So, instead of wine, it was Guinness!
It was a welcome change, although the price was not. It will be the treat we give ourselves from time to time. This is a wine country and we better stick to the drink of the locals.
With that, I leave you with gargoyles 5 and 6 as we work our way across Santa Croce.
More “a presto,”
Ed and Polley
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