We got a little delayed in our ability to blog as our rather crude dial-up portable modem had expired and needed to be recharged. That process was less than simple. Perhaps another blog will be devoted to that convoluted process. But not now! Our trip to Gallipoli is no doubt what you have all been waiting for with baited breath!
Gallilpoli is a former Greek town (it means “beautiful city” in Greek and was in fact an island that is now connected by a causeway, the Ponte Cittá Vecchia (the old city bridge. It was also a very wealthy city in the 16th and 17th centuries as it supplied some of the finest olive oil to Naples, Paris and London where it burned in the street lamps of nearly every major European city. But those days have passed and now it is largely a charming beach town.
Polley and I watched the internet and last Thursday appeared to promise to be a lovely day. So about 9 am we hiked across town to the Stazione (about a 20 -minute walk).
We, as you all might expect, were EARLY! So we found a little café and had a quick cup of coffee, sitting the bright sunshine.
At 9:43 we left the station for about an hour trip, changing trains in a little town called Zolleno. It was a very efficient change as the train personnel ushered us very quickly from our train to another that was waiting for the final leg to Gallipoli, arriving about 10:45 am.
We walked out of the station and through the new part of the town, to the foot of the causeway, where we paused for some refreshment at the Caffe La Fontana Grec and, in fact, there was a Greek Fountain there. It actually did not date back to the Greeks, but was completed in the 17th century and eventually, with the building of the causeway moved to its present location. The protected side is quite well preserved,
but the south side, facing the sea, appears to have been around since the Greeks!
Another surprise, was that when we order our two glasses of wine, they came with enough appetizers to nearly spoil one’s lunch.
This seems to be standard Gallipoli hospitality, although Caffe La Fontana Grec seemed to be a step above the rest.
While there I got this picture of the fishermen straightening out their nets after a morning of fishing.
Gallipoli has a quite notable fish market, but it goes from 6 am to 9 am, so we were not there to witness it. However, one of the veteran fishermen was not shy about this particular photo-op.
Polley and I then crossed the causeway and worked our way up the main street, past the castle, much of which was under repair. The main street, Via Antonetta de Pace, contains most of the shops and most are aimed, as you might expect at the tourists – not very different from nearly every other beach town the world over.
We passed the Basilica di Sant’Agata, the primary church on the island. However, there are a total of 14 churches, mostly quite small, on this tiny island.
After winding through the main street, we turned for the road that ran around the whole of perimeter of the island. It is beautiful and we had glorious vistas of the Ionian sea. As we wandered about, we saw fisherman stringing together filament to make new nets.
We also came across a series of these interesting benches.
There appeared to be steps on the back that Polley deduced were kneelers, as we could see the flattened back of the benches as well. At times, these benches were across the road from a small church, but at other times, the were just placed at a scene point, but not facing the sea, but rather the town itself.
Strolling about and enjoying the sunshine (it really was a perfect day, with very little breeze) was most of our activity until lunch time. We found a restaurant that we have now discovered sits at the point that nearly all photographs of Gallipoli are taken, looking back at Seno della Puritá and La Puritá beach.
The restaurant was Scoglio delle Sirene and it sat out on the point as close to sea as one could get.
The waitresses had to cross the road to get the food and only God knows the number of trips they made each day. Again, we were there on a beautiful day and privy to a world-class view. Our goal had been to come and try the Ricci di Mare – Sea Urchins. They are a specialty of this region and of this time of the year. So, we ordered a plate of them.
You sort of scrap the row out of the urchin and can put it on bread (which is what we did) or as many of the locals do, is to eat the row with a small spoon and then dip your bread in the remaining juices.
It was not bad, but did have a very fishy taste, which may not appeal to everyone. I am not sure they would be a must for me, but we did try them and emptied the plate
Along with the Ricci di Mare, we had a seafood salad
that had octopus, calamari, shrimp, and several different kinds of fish, prepared in various ways.
To wash it down, of course, we needed a ½ litre of Prosecco. Probably not the best meal we have had since arriving, but it was a memorable experience and a great spot.
We wandered about a bit more, but decided that we had really seen the town. So, on our way back to the station, we stopped again at the Caffe La Fontana for some gelato.
Polley had spied the blackest chocolate gelato I have ever seen. It could nearly pass for a cup full of tar! I had the crema de misto and both were wonderful.
We caught the 3:45 train back to Lecce, arriving about an hour later. This little fellow bid us adieu.
While we did go out for a glass of wine later, we were pretty beat. The sun, the light breeze, a good deal of walking, had done us in. Travel is not all fun and games. We are working!
Ed and Polley
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