Quiet but Content

Dear Friends and Family,

A week has passed since we left Oregon and you have heard nothing from us. There were even a few rumblings concerning our silence. Let me asure you that we are well and it has only been our settling in and some natural, south of the border laziness that has delayed our reaching out. Now, we are ready to report back.

First, let me asure you that our cat, Quirk, made a successful journey. I will not say the transition was seamless, but, he too, is now adjusting. The trip was a bit rocky at first. Our daughter-in-law, Cyndi, and her sister were staying in our place for a week while we were in Oregon. In a hasty economic decision, we decided to come back to PV early and stay in a hotel for a couple of days. I had pre-paid the first night in person, being asured that it was a "Pet Friendly" hotel. We arrived only to discover that "Pet Friendly" actually meant "Dog Friendly"! No cats. They would not budge. So Cyndi and Linda graciously agreed to switch places. It was then that Quirk finally experienced his new home.

At first, he was pretty freaked. It was a new environment, open and very loud. Taxi cabs, folks walking up the hill, a few with more than one magarita or cervaza in their system, talking very loudly, gas trucks blaring the "Charge" refrain, garbage trucks rumbling on cobblestone streets all contributed to Quirk's "deer in the headlights" appearance. It was like his going from a world veiwed through a 12" TV to one suddenly displayed on a Cinemax screen with surround sound. However, after a week of snsory overload, he seems to be accepting it all and is, in fact, at the moment, calmly sitting in the window looking out one Calle Guerrero, seeming to rule over his tiny 5' x 5' kingdom.

The adjustment to the heat has been a bit more challenging, especially with his thick, all black coat. Most afternoons he retreats beneath the bed for a prolonged nap. Early mornings and evenings he becomes a bit more visible.

Beyond our cat and a nice visit with Cyndi and Linda, it has been largely refamiliarizing ourselves with the routine of Vallarta. We got up river with Cyndi and Linda last Friday afternoon for some music and a bit of beer. We had dinner with our Oregon friends, George and Pat, and John and Mollie on Monday and Tuesday was my birthday and our Mexican friends at La Fuente del Puente has a nice little surprise for me. 69 on Tuesday, but did manage a 4.5 mile run at that advanced age. No complaints and am moving aggressively on toward 70; what choice do I have.

Polley is doing well. Not back troubles at all and seems to be moving about better. By Saturday, nearly all the people we know down will have headed north. So, it will be quiet, but we enjoy that time here as well as those times we are socializing. It will grown warmer as April moves into May, but we will adjust (hopefully, so will Quirk). It was fun being home for a while and I am sorry that we missed a few people we enjoy. But we will be back on June 1st, In the meantime, I will try to keep you caught up on our slow, but satisfying life/

 

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Headed North

Dear friends and family,

The bad news is that it has been a while since I have written; the good news is that it has been a while since I have written. I say "good news," because there has been virtually "No news"! We have not visited a doctor in several weeks, Polley seems to have no indication of back probelmss and we have even made it down to the beach. There have been other necessary trips as well: manicure on Monday (Polley, not me - I read my book and drank a beer during that time), we both had hair cuts yesterday, and tonight, we are taking our favorite waiter, José and his wife to dinner. Last night we had last drink with a new set of friends from Vancouver

As we watched our final sunset (it was beauty)

Tomorrow, it is back to Oregon for the month of March. I am sure the return will take some adjustment as te weather here has been absolutly perfect. It is hard to leave it behind. However, friends, family and the US Government call!

We will miss our time with Kira

Who, as you c see, settled right in. We are looking forward to bringing our own cat down in April. Now that we have tested the security of the place, are losing our dear house-sitter, Sam, after 8 (9 ?) wonderful years, to his own apartment and are down to just a single cat, we thought we would give it a try. Stay tuned for that chapter.

So, to all of you who have kept up with our travels, another chapter comes to an end. We are in good health at the moment, enjoying life,

And hope to live the dream a while longer. See you all soon!

 

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Wasting Away in PV

Dear friends and family,

It has been far too long since I have written. Part of that is due to too little going on (that is not a complaint); the other part is that too much has been going on. Polley continues to struggle with pain issues and we continue to look for solutions.

Since the reading of her MRIs by an local orthopedic surgeon, we have been gathering opinions about treatment options. A couple of weeks ago we talked with a doctor who does stem-cell treatments that. Are combined with detailed physical therapy. Last week we met with another doctor who suggested something called Prolotherapy. It is a series of injections along with physical therapy. Both treatments are, to a certain extent, experimental ahd have levels of success and failure. Polley is not keen on surgery, so we look to alternatives. However, the plan is to return to the States and visit Kaiser and get there opinion as well. The hope is to return to Mexico in April, either just for relaxation, with surgery coming in the summer, or having on of the other options done down here. There has been a lot of exploration both in person and on the web.

Part of the time-consuming part down here is understanding the system. At home you just call Kaiser, get an appointment (alright, that's not always easy!), get in the car and go. Here I have to go to the actual hospital or clinic, determine the right doctor, get an appointment and then get Polley in a cab, go, work our way through the appointment and the language, find another cab and get home. Oh yeah, then to a famacia for yet another prescription or two! That's part of the reason for not writing.

The other part of the pain issue is that it seems to come out of nowhere. Polley can be fine and 30 minutes later, miserable. Or the other way around. We have cancelled numerous dinner reservations or having no made them, found that she suddenly felt like going. Last night we missed a wine tasting because of a sudden attack. Right now Polley has been in bed and mostly sleeping for the last 13 hours. It has been hard.

However, having said all that, the days have been lovely, the temperatures nearly perfect and we have caught a few beautiful sunsets

We also are still enjoying Kira, our resident cat

We also have acquired 4 stays who seem to enjoy our front porch buffet for breakfast lunch and dinner.

So, there are some struggles, but generally we both have maintained our positive outlook and still are pleased to have this opportunity and to enjoy it in the moment for as long as we can. More later and home in two weeks!

 

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Latest News

Dear friends and family,

Here is the latest on Polley's condition. Over the weekend she was in a great deal of pain. Monday, despite it being a Mexican holiday, we were very fortunate to get an appointment with Dr. Max Greig, a noted orthopedic surgeon who also happens to be the brother of our old landlord. Dr. Max spent about 2 1/2 hours with us, assessing Polley's MRIs. His diagnosis is that Polley has a badly compessed disc at the bottom of her spine. For you experts, it is the L4-L5, with some other damage to L3-L4. He sees surgery as the only option for relief. He did give her some cortasone shots, with an additional shot yesterday and one scheduled for Friday. He feels that this will see us through until our scheduled departure on March 4. At that time, we will get further assessment from Kaiser and proceed. If surgery goes forward, we will not be returning the Mexico for April-May. We are told that full recovery is about 3 months. We may look into another option which involves ozone and stem cell treatments, but it is experimental and is not the solution for all.

So, that is the latest. Polley has been relatively comfortable thus far, following the injections. She got out for lunch yesterday and we even got down to the Malécon last evening for sunset. So, all is not bleak. The skies are clear, it is an even 82 degrees nearly every day. How can one complain. More soon.

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Polley Update

Dear Friends and Family,

Again, thanks to all that have expressed good wishes to Polley on her recovery. I am sorry to take a while to give the latest information, but we went through a series of tests and I also was waiting for a response from our doctor at Kaiser. Polley had two MRIs last Monday and Tuesday. Each took more than an hour and then, not included in the bill of more than $500, was delivery. It was me on a city bus for 30 minutes each way to get the results, which, of course, meant nothing to me as they were all in Spanish! So, it was back to our local doctor whom I was told could see me right away. 65 minutes later, I was ushered into her office. The results of the first were pretty much what one could expect from a nearly 79 year old. The second one, however, revealed a pinched nerve. This would explain the frequent sharp, stabbing pains that she is dealing with. So, we are trying anti-inflammatories and muscle relaxants. At times, it seems better, at others, it does not. I think that ancient healer, time, will be answer. In the meantime, we shall muddle (shuffle) along. At least, it is warm which puts it one up on Oregon at the moment.

Other than the medical update, there is little to report. We have tried to make it down to the Malécon each evening for sunset.

Some, as you can see, have been quite dramatic. Clouds have moved in the last couple of nights and, in fact, last night there was nothing visible at all

I did have a fun moment on my walk the other morning, as I came across a group of people, pardon the expression, "getting their rocks off" . . THE BEACH!

We have had particularly high tides the last few days and it is amazing how many rocks the beach can throw up over night. This was the beach in front of a nice restaurant, Daqueri Dicks, where they normally set out tables and chairs on the beach. It was not happening on this day, unless some people got out and moved the rocks. They were all doing their best.

The amazing thing is, that the sea can come up and take them all away as quickly as they were deposited. Don't mess with Mother Nature.

So, that is it for now. No dramatic developments, but, at this point, we are just hoping for a "blessed miracle." In that even, you will be the first to know. Thanks, again, for caring.

 

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Struggles Abroad

Dear Friends and Family,

It has been more days that I'd like to admit since last I wrote. They have been a bit difficult. Both Polley and I have been ill. Mine, I think, is just a cold, but Polley has really been struggling. A week ago today she was suffering from a terrible pain in her back. I got an appointment and we got to the doctor. She is a terrific internist and cardiologist, Dr. Lewgot. She quickly determined that Polley had "Walking Pneumonia"! Polley has had this terrible hacking cough for two or three months and we kept telling our Kaiser doctors about it. She had a swallow test and worked with a speech pathologist on controlling the cough. Now it is likely that it was a low grade pneumonia the whole time. Polley had a chest x-ray and the infection was confirmed. So with some meds, we glided home, happy that we now had a diagnosis. After months, we had met the enemy.

The following Monday, we returned to the doctor for a second round of shots and some more meds. Unfortunately, two days later, last Thursday, we were back with Lewgot, as Polley was suffering again from this back pain, seemingly located in her lungs. Lewgot put her on a respirator/humidifier for half an hour and we were to come back on Friday. We did that yesterday and there seemed to be some improvement. However, by last night, the pain had returned and by 2 am this morning she was in agony. I have an e-mail into the doctor and we will see what additional steps will be taken. It is difficult when you are so far from home. Mexican doctors have been great, and Dr. Lewgot comes highly recommended, but I do fear that we may be in for the long haul with this. More later, as we make progress.

On a brighter note, we did have a night out, in between bouts of illness. We went to Barcelona, a tapas restaurant that we enjoyed about 6 or 7 years ago. It is located at the north end of El Centro and had just fallen off our radar. After making our way up endless flights of stairs, we did find ourselves with a lovely table for two with a breathtaking view of the bay below.

As you can see, it was a beautiful evening. The restaurant comes around and takes the photos and then prints them and sends them by e-mail as well. Makes for a very special mimento. Food it also very good. Not just another pretty view!

We also managed a night or two of trips down to Roberto's for sunset. As with most nights, very impressive.

It has been fun to watch the sun come around to the north over the last month. It now sets off the point and we see it disappear into the ocean horizon. Last night was, in fact, one of the first nights that it set off land. Termperatures are also heating up, although the Mexicans are still complaining about the coolness of the mornings. You see them everywhere in their hoodies and jackets while us Gringos are walking the Malécon in tank-tops and sandals.

So, not a lot of action. Mostly trying to low low and heal. More on that soon. For now, I sit ast 6 am feeling a bit useless and hope the doctor will call. Best to all for now.

 

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Alive in Paradise

Dear Friends and Family,

Nothing really staggering to report, but we are alive and enjoying ourselves in the sunshine. Actually, when discussing the weather, it has been a bit cool in the mornings especially. We have had lows in the upper 50s. I don't expect much sympathy from those of you upo north, as I realized the other morning that our low was still about 15 degrees warmer that you high was going to be for the day. I will, however, confess to needing long-sleeve shirts in the morning and for the last two night have worn long pants down to the Malécon for the sunset, some of which have been spectacular.

Last night, as you can see, we had one of what I call a "Ben Hur" sky, light of God and all that.

We have gotten to know two Canadian couples and have enjoyed their company as they come down to the Malécon most evenings for some refreshment and conversation. Ray and Yvonne are from Vancouver, B.C. And Wally and Pat are from a very small place about 4 hours further east our of Vancouver. Very nice people who enjoy just sitting and talking, somewhat of a lost art I am finding,

Tuesday, after the sun went down (we like to make sure that even occurs each evening), we wandered over to a place on the Rio Cuale, called The River Cafe to see, for the first time this winter, our Scots friend, Bobby Tansen, the hippie flute player.

Bobby plays all over town, but on Tuesdays is paired with Gilberto, a great guitar player, for several sets of the hits of our generation. It is basically the same show they do up river on Friday afternoons. We sat and had glassed of wine and had a chance to talk with both Bobby and Gilberto for a few minutes. You always have to plan to share Bobby with other groupies who seem to gather wherever he appears (of course, that is what groupies are supposed to do, right?). It was a nice evening and we enjoyed reconnecting with Bobby. We plan to catch him and his son who are playing at an Irish pub on Saturday.

I did have one light-hearted, "lost in translation" moment a couple of days ago. I wanted to get my beard trimmed. I like to go to this old Mexican barber. It is another opportunity to connect with the locals. He has no English, so it challenges me to use my Spanish. I ask him for trim, on the short side. In just moments, his clippers had removed one whole side of my beard completely! What could I do? The trim quickly became a complete shave and I was, shockingly, reintroduced to my face. After the shave, feeling somewhat honored by the fact that the old man (probably my age!) used the first razor blade he had ever owned, I returned home and with every fiber of my being, started on the new beard!

So, with that, I bid adieu. All is well, we lover our house, we cherise our daily routine and it is so nice to have time again the read. I particularly enjoyed two novels my Kate Atkinson, a re-reading of "Life After Life" and her companion piece to it, "A God in Ruins," both highly recommended! Until next time, we think of all of you often and hope all is well in the north.

 

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A Happy Ending

Dear Friends and Family,

When last I reported to you, Polley and I had just enjoyed a wonderful evening at Casa Kimberly, the former home of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, as we celebrated our 35th wedding anniversary. 12 hours later, the symbol of that commitment had vanished and there were moments of real devastation. Have your attention? I hope so.

The next day, with the sun shining and the brilliant blue sky bringing everything into sharp perspective, Polley and I headed for the beach. We settled in with a couple of cold Pacificos and I adjusted my chair to catch a few rays of the sun. It had been cloudy for several days, this was the first real opportunity to work on acquiring a little bit of color. As it got warmer, I decided to go into the ocean, something I almost never do, certainly not in any serious way. I was feeling a slight quiver of my inner teenage surfer. After a few minutes, I discovered that the was determined to reveal me as an aging 68-year old. So as I extracated myself from the sea, a good-sized wave tossed me about. I quickly righted myself and returned to the comfort and safety of my chair (and my beer!). Within a minute or two, I discovered that my wedding band had come off! As I was about 25 pounds heavier in 1981, the then tight fitting band had, over the years, fit rather loosely and I was constantly battling to keep it on. Last Wednesday, I lost the battle. I was devastated! We searched in searched, but to no avail. The tide was coming in, the surf was pounding and it was lost! After an hour or so, reluctantly, we headed home, stopping off for a bitter tasting margarita.

The next morning, ever the optomist, I was at the same beach as the sun came up. Of course, no luck! I trudged back home, determined to somewho replace the ring. At lunch, I mentioned the situation of our very good waiter/friend, José. Within minutes José had run across the street to the local mercado and soon returned with Pépe, a local jeweler. He looked at Polley's ring and said that he could make a copy. He would get a quote from the designer and we were to meet him at 5 pm. This was Thursday. At 5 we returned, Pépe had the quote. We agreed and he said that it would be ready Saturday. Saturday!? Only two days. Incredible!

Last night, at 5, we returned and the result was miraculous!

It was a perfect match

 

Tragedy averted and marriage saved! The other nice part, from a purely practical standpoint, it was all in pesos! With the American dollar so strong, it was not nearly as hard a hit to the pocketbook. However, regardless of cost, it was going to be replaced. So last night, we celebrated a bit, sitting out on the Malécon, watching the sky celebrated our good fortune.

More soon!

 

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A Night To Remember - 35 Years and Counting

Dear Friends and Family,

It was our anniversary last night and to celebrate, we had dinner at Casa Kimberly, the former home of Liz Taylor and Richard Burton.

For the last half dozen years or more, it has been undergoing restoration. At the end of 2015 it finally opened as a high-end hotel and restaurant. We had our first peek last night.

As some of you know, it is located just around the corner from us and so, at about 7:15, we hiked up the hill, pulled on sturdy piece of rope that rang a bell at the front gate and were quickly greated by the concierge and escorted to our table.

We sat in the open air, with a stunning view of the south hills of PV, just off a larger dining room where an excellent mariachi band was entertaining.

Not surprisingly, the service and the food were excellent as well. For an appetizer, we had a seafood ceviche with shrimp, octopus and squid. It was elaborately presented in a kind of cup created by very thinly sliced cucumber. For the main meal, Polley had an intriguing corn soup and I had chicken enchiladas in green and black bean sauce. Everything was wonderful. We passed up on dessert, however, the waiter informed us a little surprise.

It was a kind of cheesecake mound. Clearly it was delicious as it was gone before I could take a photo. Following dinner, we wandered about the place. There were Liz Taylor posters,

A large courtyard,

And when you crossed over the bridge, built to link Taylor's place with a second home, purchased by Burton who apparently loved to read and valued his time alone, you came to his home

Most of it was not available for viewing, but we were able to look down on the pool and deck that surrounds it.

All in all, it was a wonderful anniversary celebration and we have booked a reservation for Polley's birthday as well. Perhaps, at that time, we can explore some of the rooms, which we are told rent for as much as $800 a night. We will doubtless, just be having dinner.

More soon.

 

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A Slow Adjustment

Dear Friends and Family,

I have taken to trying to journal a bit at a time and them post it to you. This, of course, not mean it will be any more interesting than before, but it does help this aging mind keep track of the days' activities.

 

 

Sunday, 27 December

A very gray, very rainy day today. I headed off on my walk, partially in pursuit of a proper litter box. The one our old landlord, Alfred, had given us, along with Kira the cat, was a converted cardboard box. The cat was not pleased with the arrangement and demonstrated her displeasure by "pooping" in the corner of the living room. Point taken! Finding nary a litter box in PV, even at the vet (Most cats are outdoors, so it makes a kind of sense), I headed out to a larger store, Mega. Just as I reached Mega, about a mile and a half, the skies opened up and even after thoroughly searching for a litter box at Mega, it was still pouring. Since I was already a mile and a half north, I thought next stop: Walmart. I scrambled across the highway and was shortly onboard a city bus; the best 7 1/2 peso adventure ride in the area. I reached Walmart, pretty much drenched as it was a good run from the bus stop to the store. In fact, I had to run along the highway for a bit as there was not place to cross the swamps that had formed up against the curbs. Still no little box. However, in a brief moment of creative clarity (desperation?), I thought about just a standard tub in housewares. Voila! A new litter box. So, feeling somewhat triumphant, I caught a cab back home

Rain continued, so Polley and I stayed in the remainder of the morning, reading. About noon, we ventured down to La Fuente. The previous 4 days the place had been dead and we even feared that it was not going to survive. Sunday, it was packed and we had to retreat to a sidewalk table, as there were none available in the actual restaurant. It was clear that because it was not sunny and warm, but rather wet and rainy, tourists had strayed away from the beach and come further into town. The place was so busy, in fact, and the staff so minimal that I had to bus a couple of tables and seat a family and take their drink orders. Ah, the price for being a regular! We must have sat for nearly an hour, satisfactorily sipping our margaritas (we did manage to get those), before we got some actual lunch. As we always do, we ask about the soup of the day. Previously it had been cream of spinach one day and cream of carrot the other two. Surprise, surprise, today it was cream of spinach and carrot! Surprisingly (or not, as their soups always excellent), it was very good. After working our way through lunch, it was siesta time and a bit more reading before heading down to Roberto's for sunset, which we never actually saw! The Malécon was packed. Families, skateboarders, bicyclists, musicians, the whole town seemed to be gathered before us. We were soon joined by a new friend, Russ, from Vancouver, BC. We have seen him and his wife (Yvonne) regularly for the last couple of years, but have never really spoken until right at the end of last season. He was on his own last night, accompanied by his little dog, and ask to join us. A very interesting fellow. A retired tugboat operator (from a family business of more than a 100 years), Russ and Yvonne have been coming to PV for the last 20 years and own a condo up the hill. Despite the gray skies, it was a very nice evening and we talked until it was clear that the little dog had had enough (of us?). So Russ headed one way and we headed up the hill. We comforted ourselves with some wine and a nice bowl of chicken chowder that I had made earlier in the week. Despite the weather and with a suitable litter box in place, we turned in, Polley, Kira and me!

The next couple of days continued rather cool and cloudy. Each day it was up with plans for the beach, only to have the cloud cover dampen out enthusiasm for the trek. So life remained simple and very routine. With the holidays, there are many Mexican families in town. Hotels are full and the nightlife is active (a polite term for LOUD!). The entertainers are out in force. This fellow plays the Angel Gabriel (I would guess) and it is a feat of engineering, as he hovers a foot or two above the ground

Probably the most successful entrepreneur is a fellow who climbs into his bandito outfit each night and becomes a living photo-op for tourists.

Amazing the creativity that comes with a high unemployment level. I have know idea how much he brings in a night, but he seems to be a very busy man.

Yesterday, the sun broke through and the long-awaited journey to the sea was realized. We visited out old haunt, Langosta Loca and I caught a few rays of sun. We reconnected with our waiter-friend Ricardo and swore that we would be more visible this year. Then it was back to Roberto's for an actual sunset.

They have been few and far between so far. More to come I am sure!

 

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Another Year in PV

One and all, family and Friends,

It is hard to believe that Polley and I find ourselves in Puerto Vallarta for year number 8! I look back and remember the first year meeting a woman who claimed she and her husband had been coming to PV for 25 years. I could not fathom the idea of coming to the same place year after year after year. But here we are, again!

As most of you know, December was a very hard month weather-wise. After such hard, relentless rain, you really come to appreciate drizzle. Sunshine even more. Tuesday, 22 December, we finally got away. It took a bit of doing as our flight was delayed an hour and a half. My sister-in-law warned me, but I had already booked the flight. Avoid San Francisco. It can often get fogged in and air traffic gets backedup. That is exactly what happened to us. About 8:30, we left Portland. There was a terrific tailwind (El Niño is not all bad) and we were down to SFO in an hour and a half. However, we then had to hold for another 20 minutes or so as things were still backedup. We arrived about 10 and they did manage to turn the unload and reload the plane very quickly and by 11 or so we were on our way south. However, by the time we cleared Passport Control and Customs, it was 5:45, nearly two hours laters than scheduled. WE caught a cab and made it to our place by 6:15 or so. My brother and his wife had stayed in the house for November and 10 days of December, so we had the keys. However, our agent was there and soon we were feeling like we were home.

So, the last few days have been settling in. Those of you who have followed this blog previously know the routine. Several days of shopping. Taking in the old cat from up the hill. Our old landlord was quick to see if we wanted company at our place. So, having hardly unpacked (actually, I don't think Polley is done yet), we put chicken wire on the windows, bought catfood and set up a litter box and Kira was back with us. It will be nice to have her, but when we return in April (after taxes and a brief visit home) we are thinking of bringing our cat, Quirk (sadly we are down to one cat as we had to put Caspar down in mid-December), down south with us. He is an indoor cat who needs to get out more!

So the rhythms of life are beginning to be set. We did begin our stay with some sad news. When we arrived for lunch on the second day here, we discovered that José, our very favorit waiter, was not around as his father had passed away. Then later, we wandered down to the Malécon to Roberto's. There we were shocked to find that another delightful waiter, Freddy, had been hit by a car and killed in July. He was only 20! Our visit was not getting off on a positive note. That is what comes of an ongoing relationship with a place. Things come and things go, people come into your life and go out. It begins to make you realize that you have only so many entrances life and then, one day, a final exit as well.

But, as for now, we are here, and the sun shines.

Wer enjoyed the rare Christmas full moon. Had a lovely Christmas dinner at Vitea and have hooked up with some friends from years past. Life is good here, we are warm (and dry) and will continue to share with you our days as they too come and go. Love to all. Merry Christmas and a most Happy New Year.

 

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The Last Full Day

Dear Friends and Family,

Perhaps the title should be the last "complete" day, as we don't anticipate that it will be particularly full. As it has been a while since my last communication, it may suggest that little of note has happened. That is true. In fact, I thought this photo best captured our lives for the last several weeks

Kira has been our role model. Unfortunately it all comes to an end tomorrow, both for her, as we return her to her former home, as well as for us, to the airport about 1:30 Sunday afternoon and back in Portland about 9 that night.

It has been a good stay in our new place. We feel so lucky to have it. We did learn a bit more about the place. A few days ago, a Mexican man was leading a couple on a private tour and they stopped in front of our place and he began to tell them about the house. So, I seized the opportunity and went out to ask the fellow if he could share the infor with Polley and myself as well. Well, he did. He came in and told us this was known as the "Treasure House," because legend has it that a treasure was buried beneath the place. He also revealed that the place was not originally a house at all, but, in fact, was a barn in which the kept the donkeys and other animals. The burros were taken down Guerrero Street to the sea where they were used to carry the unloaded fish and other supplies that were brought in. Once we learned this, and looked at the place with this new information, we could see it as a barn

The shape of the building, the very high barn-like rafters and open, tile roof and the three large double doors necessary to bring animals in and out

A barn indeed. Fascinating!

The weather here has turned very warm in the last week to 10 days. We have decided, as we did when we stayed in PV in the fall, that, ideally, you don't want to arrive here much before November 15th and you don't want to remain here much after May 15th. It just become sticky and humid before and after those dates. It hit 90 yesterday and the thunderstorm season looks to be beginning not long after we leave. Perfect timing.

Other than that, we have been enjoying some sun in our back courtyard (although that is getting pretty hot as well), having some nice lunches out and getting in a few dramatic sunsets. May does seem to be a good month for those as most of the clouds are gone in the evening and there is just this intense, big round ball of sun

The crowds are gone and often as we sit at Roberto's on the Malécon, we are the only two in the restaurant.

So, that has been our daily life. Not complaints, but from our sparse communications, it has been "nothing to write home about!" So, as we begine to sweep out the barn and pack up, we wish all the best to you and look forward to our 6 months (can you believe it!) in Portland (and Bend, Will and Natacha) and the chance to be with friends and family. See you all soon.

 

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Two Weeks and Counting

Dear Family and Friends,

It is two weeks today that we turn our minds and our luggage toward home and, like always, we begin to feel ready. The weather here is warming up, about 89 yesterday and the nights are not cooling off a great deal, which compromises sleeping. So, I think May is the latest you want to be in PV.

This week I was struck with the feeling of loss. When you come back to a place year after year (8 years for us now), you begin to recognize the locals, or if not locals, those that seem to visit here about the same time you do. You don't know them by name (at least, not usually), but you acknowledge one another as you pass them each morning, about the same time, on the Malécon or in the stores or at the cafes. It is usually no more than a tip of the head, or a wave of the hand. These last 6 weeks I was aware that a couple of these folks were missing. Further investigation discovered that in each case they had died. While not knowing them, I sincerely felt a sense of loss, that PV would not, for me, be quite the same.

I didn't even know the name of the one fellow, but he and I walked about the same time and would see each other out at the point at the end of Malécon. I was usually enjoying a cup of store-bought frijoles while this fellow had stopped at the local convenience store and bought a Tecate beer. We laughed at our separate indulgences.

The other fellow we did have a speaking relationship with. His name was Norm. We was rail-thin, darkly tanned and was clearly the living embodiment of the "Vietnam Vet." We learned that he lived out at the Marina, but came into town each day, either in his pickup or on the back of his Harley. He then proceeded to hold down a bar stool for nearly the remainder of the day, sipping on a cold Pacifico. When I inquired about his missing and they told me he had died, the bar had put up a memorial to Norm, with his picture and a small plaque supplied by the Veterans Assocication. Obviously others missed Norm as well.

The past week has been pretty low-keyed. We managed to maintain our regular routine. Trying to savor the last few weeks to Paradise. With the warmer days, the sunsets on the Malécon were becoming quite stunning.

I continued my fascination with silhouettes against the bright background. I managed to capture this bandito as he awaited another photo-op and another 5 or 10 pesos

Actually, the Malécon was quite active with Mexicans this week. The Gringo population continues to dwindle down to a precious few, but the food carts seem to be thriving. I caught this table of sweets last night

Speaking of food, when we have lunch each day at La Fuente, I have always commented on the number of people who, faced with a plethora of Mexican delicacies, end up having a "Club Sandwich." So, this week, in an effort to better understand my fellow travelers (and to try and work my way through the entire menu), I had one as well.

I begrudgingly admit is was very good! Of course, with the fries, it ended up as two meals, but I could see its attraction.

The Malécon also provided me with this Pelican airforce passing over Roberto's just before sundown

All in all, a very nice week. Just two more to go and we will do our best to savor each moment, but it is easy to take this life, and these sunsets, for granted

 

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